RUMCars Forum
General Category => Unusual Microcar Discussion => Topic started by: Grommet on March 16, 2014, 12:32:46 AM
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Hi Everyone
This is my first post...
Im about 1/3 way through my replica build :)
This is a photoshop of what Im aiming for:
(http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt265/velocette_album/Peel%20Trident/newpeelside_zpsa355eb60.png~original) (http://s618.photobucket.com/user/velocette_album/media/Peel%20Trident/newpeelside_zpsa355eb60.png.html)
What do you think?
Grommet
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I think it looks great!
Apparently you and I are on a similar path.
Mine resides on its side in my living room so I can visualize the underpinnings that I intend to modify.
One note of caution though. You will need overly stiff front springs to keep from bottoming out if you decide to take on a passenger, as with the height of the tires that you have selected that fill the wheel wells so nicely, you will only have about 2" of vertical wheel travel available.
When considering the only 195 lb weight of the original car, you would likely be increasing your sprung weight by a factor of 2 and a half or more, so your wheel travel may be used up with 2 aboard even before you hit a bump.
I have 6" aircraft wheels, and pretty stiff springs, but haven't selected tires yet or fully created and assembled my suspension, so I can only ask if anyone else can chime in with suggestions that hopefully will come close to the look that you have photoshopped, and not bottom out under normal driving conditions.
Yes I do realize that they came with inexplicably knobby tires on only 5" wheels when new.
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make sure you can get in one before you build it !! apparently if your over average height or footsize the replica , yet another , will be useless to you .
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make sure you can get in one before you build it !! apparently if you are over the average height or foot size the replica , yet another , will be useless to you .
Peel Engineering (IOM) did offer a larger/higher dome option for taller drivers. No two Trident domes were the exact same size or shape.
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Thanks for the replies
Steve my wheels are 8” all 3 from the donor Triumph (front, rear and spare) also the hubs, brakes and suspension. All I have needed to fabricate are the swivels which are on 2” taper bearings; these sit roughly where the original Peel shocks were mounted.
The full travel is around 1 ½” and the ‘sprung weight’ is considerably reduced as the wishbones are actually only acting as stays and are fixed rigidly to the body ie unsprung as are all of the steering gear, track rod and the swivels.
Just the hub and wheel are mobile and the rate is adjustable so I can hopefully get it just right once I can test drive. It’s a very compact set up and fits nicely in the restricted space.
8”x 3.5 tyres are readily available with all sorts of tread patterns and speed ratings. Original peel tyres are now so rare my view is that they are best left for the few original machines out there.
I think the ride at the front may end up fairly hard but only time will tell and I don’t anticipate doing more than a few thousand miles a year in such a small vehicle!
I know some are fed up with replicas but I realistically couldn’t afford an original even were a wreck to become available and having restored it would not be comfortable with insuring it or using on the road for fear of the scale of the loss. £20k plus?
Richard, that’s a good point, I am average build and have sat in the body mould and imagined the dome! I think I will just about fit!! As Trident suggests, if all else fails a taller dome will have to be made.
Grommet
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With only 1 and 1/2" of travel, you should just be able to get away with the tire size and clearances shown.
Could you please supply a picture or drawing showing your front suspension layout?
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Hello grommet , sounds a cool idea the bigger wheels are interesting , pictures needed !!! I'm picking up a trident replica at the end of this month , I can't afford the dome so it will have to be a convertable haha
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Here is a pic which illustrates crudely the set up..It wont look exactly like this.
Ive done full engineering drawings so I know it fits ok..
The wheelbase had to be shortened slightly to accommodate the large wheel. The steering is the standard Peel set up and Ive already finished that part.
The only thing Im not 100 % on is exactly what the turning circle will be until I mock it up on the body.
(http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt265/velocette_album/Peel%20Trident/FrontsuspensionTRY_zps7eafe2f5.png~original) (http://s618.photobucket.com/user/velocette_album/media/Peel%20Trident/FrontsuspensionTRY_zps7eafe2f5.png.html)
Grommet
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Is there anyone here not building a Peel replica? ;)
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I'm not!
If I did though I would have gone the Tina route. I like the suspension idea and its in good microcar tradition too. Both my cars, Inter and Isetta use a similar system where just the hub moves, no swing arms which change the camber constantly. The bigger wheels will detract from the Peel look but I'm sure it will make it much more drivable. Keep it up Grommet!
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say cheese Grommet ;D
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Is there anyone here not building a Peel replica? ;)
I'm not building any Peels, Trident. But as you can see in the photo, the two genuine cars that I owned in1976, the blue one is now owned you. ;D
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I like the suspension idea and its in good microcar tradition too. Both my cars, Inter and Isetta use a similar system where just the hub moves, no swing arms which change the camber constantly.
So you are thinking that no camber change is better than too much, or wrong direction of camber change?
Wouldn't it be best to engineer in the correct direction and amount of camber change for better cornering?
I suppose the reason that I had only noticed this type of suspension on single front wheel cars is due to their being no good way to effect proper camber alteration with this configuration. Although I do notice that if one cheats by leaning into corners on my single front wheel Arola, it does feel less likely to tip over. Very important on this car, as I can generate a rocking couple by placing the tip of my index finger at the top of its tall body work, straight above the rear axle. After about a half a dozen finger tip pushes, in synch with the resonant frequency of the springs- I can actually get a rear wheel to hop off the ground.
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Well Im not claiming to be any sort of expert but the camber does appear to change with my set up, not really as a result of suspension movement.... it changes in response to the degree of turn due to the inclination of the swivels and offset from the wheel centre? I think adjusting the inclination of the swivels will allow a degree of alteration?
I did notice that one side rises and one side lowers slightly with my set up when cornering....
I will know better how it handles once i have it ready for a test drive and its not exactly going to be a racer with only 98cc !!
Grommet
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Well Ive just experimented and by adjusting the inclination of the swivel I can get as much or as little camber as I could reasonably want....whether I need to make any adjustments remains to be seen.
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Turning the wheel on my Nobel reveals that it is at least likely that your outside wheel's attachment to the chassis will be rising when cornering. That is a good thing.
Which way is your wheel cambering, in or out at the top?
Must be some trade off here or this type of suspension would have achieved a greater following by now.
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Well I don't claim to be any kind of expert on steering geometry either and when these things have been discussed on this forum before, the tech stuff has gone right over my head!
The way I understand it is that the kingpin angle changes the camber for cornering but what I don't much like about swing arms is the actual track measurement changes as the car goes over the bumps. That cant be good can it? Still with the Nobel this is probably the least of my worries when there is a wheel bolted on either end of a single leaf spring!
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Trident shell would make a funky small hovercraft. It might getaway with out a lift unit with all the hot air talked, but in reality it would probably need a lifter/driver. Perfect for the rally field, puddlejumping and a trip round the bay. Indeed more useful than a wheeled one I suspect. With buoyancy it would be a single Fishermans skiff.
I like the notion of Ollivanders Nottingham branch offering domes that are selected to suit the driver in the same way Wizards get their wands. I wonder if there is one with attached thought bubbles.
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And I thought that Al would chime in to set us all straight about the ideal suspension and steering geometries, and how to best go about attaining them with a non parallel, unequall length double wishbones with anti dive and anti squat effects, and proper Akerman angles.
I hope this doesn't mean that I have to read another book. :'(
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Al
I was looking at my ZB Magnettes just the other day and wondering which varitone combination would suit the Peel best ;) I do also have a hovercraft engine.. perhaps I can give it a go!
Grommet
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Mmm ZB's. Jelly moulded joy jalopies.
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Oh Dear, he has gone figurative again, just when I was hoping for a treatise. :-\
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Hi
Ive just obtained my VIN plate for my trident replica. Here is a pic of it against the tool box moulding which shows the gel coat colour Im using.. :)
Grommet
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Where does that tool box department sit?
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Behind the seat..
See file attached
Grommet
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I am surprised to see a replica Peel being allowed to display a vin plate showing it to be made by Peel Engineering, Isle of Man.
Surely this cannot be true? Jean
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Jean
An interesting thought..and one that could apply to any replica or even to a reconstructed vehicle.
The plate has a different character ‘T’ as a prefix for the VIN number .. this is etched into the metal so tamper proof. (original cars used D, E etc) and it will be recorded as a replica in the Peel register. I hope that will give you some comfort.
I personally don’t see any difference with this to for example fitting a replica Trident badge on the bonnet and a Peel Engineering badge on the dash or indeed showing ‘Peel Trident‘ on number plates fitted to the vehicle all of which I’ve seen on replicas.
The registration document will not record the car as manufactured by Peel but the marque of the donor vehicle which in my case is a Truimph.
Grommet
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I like the suspension idea and its in good microcar tradition too. Both my cars, Inter and Isetta use a similar system where just the hub moves, no swing arms which change the camber constantly.
So you are thinking that no camber change is better than too much, or wrong direction of camber change?
Wouldn't it be best to engineer in the correct direction and amount of camber change for better cornering?
I suppose the reason that I had only noticed this type of suspension on single front wheel cars is due to their being no good way to effect proper camber alteration with this configuration. Although I do notice that if one cheats by leaning into corners on my single front wheel Arola, it does feel less likely to tip over. Very important on this car, as I can generate a rocking couple by placing the tip of my index finger at the top of its tall body work, straight above the rear axle. After about a half a dozen finger tip pushes, in synch with the resonant frequency of the springs- I can actually get a rear wheel to hop off the ground.
Check out the much maligned Bond 875 front assembly. If only that came with Citroen 'look round the corner' headlights!
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Oh Dear, he has gone figurative again, just when I was hoping for a treatise. :-\
I am no authority on handling. A vexed and complicated subject. Suffice it to say that I understand the principle issues, but I get very confused with the names of differing layours and such. Basically the faster you want to go, the more important the handling, though it seems counter-productive to not provide a good basic design from the off.
That said much is in the set up and method of driving. Hence you have Michael Mallock taking a Historic Clubmans formula car along to Historic Formula 3 and blowing off a field of far more complex designs.
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I am surprised to see a replica Peel being allowed to display a vin plate showing it to be made by Peel Engineering, Isle of Man.
Surely this cannot be true? Jean
I think that the Isle of Man itself might be faked by now. An island in the midst of the Trent, probably. Either that or its tied up with Piel Island and its votive king. This place got in early in the fake business with Lambert Simnel. Funnily enough that all rather went nasty on the banks of the said Trent, near Newark.
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Check out the much maligned Bond 875 front assembly. If only that came with Citroen 'look round the corner' headlights!
Hey carefull ;D ... last time mine was MOT (Reliant garage) front wheel into the rollers , brake applied the thing came up from the rollers , after reassuring the tester and explaining the floating back plate I was given a MOT .
Thing to check on the Plas is the bend on the downtube , prone to corrosion and splitting .
Alan
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Jean
An interesting thought..and one that could apply to any replica or even to a reconstructed vehicle.
The plate has a different character ‘T’ as a prefix for the VIN number .. this is etched into the metal so tamper proof. (original cars used D, E etc) and it will be recorded as a replica in the Peel register. I hope that will give you some comfort.
I personally don’t see any difference with this to for example fitting a replica Trident badge on the bonnet and a Peel Engineering badge on the dash or indeed showing ‘Peel Trident‘ on number plates fitted to the vehicle all of which I’ve seen on replicas.
The registration document will not record the car as manufactured by Peel but the marque of the donor vehicle which in my case is a Truimph.
Grommet
Have you already notified Alastair Lauchland the details of this vehicle? I cannot recall seeing it on the Peel section of the Register of Unusual Microcars which is recognised by the DVLA, or are you referring to the list of Peels that Andy Carter keeps on his website?
Jean
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Oh Dear
Im not feeling very welcome here... :o
I was hoping to share my excitement, experiences and expertise with that of others… perhaps I’m just misunderstood?
Perhaps you cannot accept a replica microcar and will always think of it as a fake or fraudulent even if it is presented as a replica.
The answer is NO I haven’t notified anyone yet, but will in due course I was seeking to reassure you of my intentions as you seemed alarmed.
There is however a clue in the underlined part of my post ... I think it would be a bit premature to register it before it has even been completed!
Grommet
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Fear not Mr Grommet. I understood you perfectly. The car is not finished so why would it be registered with anyone of anything! Jean is a little nervous of replica's due to past history but the forum is made up of all sorts with all sorts of likes and dislikes. Be assured you are very welcome and please keep us informed.
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You are welcome grommet , from one builder to another someone once said to me on this forum, just keep the pictures up , following with interest
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"There is however a clue in the underlined part of my post ... I think it would be a bit premature to register it before it has even been completed"
I am very sorry Grommet I did not intend to make you feel unwelcome, but there has been some misunderstanding in the past that the Peel Register was separate from the Register of Unusual Microcars rather than part of it. The same thing held for the Nobel and AC sections. Some newbies, still do not understand this. The only separate Registers as opposed to the one make Clubs that are recognised by the DVLA are the Scootacars and the Friskys, all other unusual cars without one make Clubs come under the blanket of The Register of Unusual Microcars. As far as I am concerned all unusual microcars, be they from whatever era, self build one-offs or replicas are very interesting and most welcome. We like to welcome them into the fold as early as possible so we may share in their progress and keep track of them should they change hands. Alastair is only too pleased to add them to the Register with the minimum of information so long as he is kept informed when they are given registration numbers and made road legal etc. This means they have their complete history recorded right from the start, which can be passed on to a new owner should they ever change hands.
So please don't think you are unwelcome, or treated with suspicion or regarded as a fake. A fake is something that claims to be a genuine original rather than a replica.
Not knowing what part of the country you come from we would love to see your car at our Open Day if you are near enough, just as one day soon we hope we shall have the pleasure of seeing Bob Purton's Bobette and we welcome Steve Fisk's P.50. Jean
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Jean
Thanks for your reply, that and the other replies makes me feel a lot better!
I’m sorry too if I over reacted …it does seem to be easy to get the wrong impression on forums.
I did understand the situation regarding the registers and will probably provide details to both.
The other being more of a personal list/record rather than an ‘official’ register.
I will certainly give consideration to registering with RUM before it is completed or if I need to sell it for some unexpected reason before completion, this is not something that I had thought about previously.
I’m really enjoying the challenge of the build and hope to have a machine that can be used on completion and maybe I will attend a few shows. I am keen to come to one of your open days too!
In the end I will have the satisfaction of having fabricated/scratch built myself the majority of my car but will also have the option to try out modifications/improvements as I see fit without having to worry about spoiling an original car.
The Triumph unit is really fun as it is fully automatic, belt drive and pulls surprisingly well. I think it will be a lot better than the Zweirad motor with its ‘chunky’ installation frame and oily chain drive.
I’ve been whizzing about with it fitted in a T10 scooter and smiling all the time. So it’s ready to fit straight in the Peel when it’s completed. The Triumph has superb brakes so with an additional braked wheel stopping ability should also be good if I get the balance right.
Grommet
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It begins to become of interest to have a grand Peel showing, where the seemingly endless differing notions of what might underpin a Peel shell could be found in one place. I do not doubt some cross fertilisation might be had as the best ideas get spotted. That improves the breed/half breed, depending on your view point. While I am no fan of replicas, I am a champion of folk doing what they wish, and of anyone who can create something that works out of a pile of mainly inert stuff. Might be a Racing Car, Kit, Classic or Replica. Men in sheds helped make Britain Great.
Still feel there is a place for the Peel and Puddlejumper Show. Maybe out of season and indoors, as most of the cars are small enough to get into a hall. Might be more popular too, a day bubbling our of season near the M1, in the warm, just add Microjumble and surely that could succeed?
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And what about women in sheds?
A few a-peeling photos for those that don't want to trawl the internet. :)
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/w7056e5b6sz9vs7/AACbgPHDl0k4dNdXADBWi3-fa?dl=0
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I'm a bit more interested in yours Grommet than others as you have gone the Tina route. As Peel engineering themselves started down that road , you have just carried on and developed it the same way they would have done. Besides I had a Triumph Tina when I was 14. No dog walker was safe over the Cranham brick fields! ;D
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A few a-peeling photos for those that don't want to trawl the internet. :)
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/w7056e5b6sz9vs7/AACbgPHDl0k4dNdXADBWi3-fa?dl=0
Two pictures show me working on my first P50 in 1976, photos 30 & 31 with a front wheel off cleaning the brakes. Just realised I still have the large chunk of wood holding the car up. I may carve Peel Jack '76 onto it and list it on ebay!!!!! ;D
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Hi
Following my post on Malcolms thread I have the steering box apart for painting
Hi
The original box is chain driven which makes the offset simpler, I fabricated one for my Trident project.. it took some time but was very satisfying.. Here is pic or 2
(http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt265/velocette_album/Peel%20Trident/pics048_zpsdab77fba.jpg~original) (http://s618.photobucket.com/user/velocette_album/media/Peel%20Trident/pics048_zpsdab77fba.jpg.html)
(http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt265/velocette_album/Peel%20Trident/pics047_zps80b3dc30.jpg~original) (http://s618.photobucket.com/user/velocette_album/media/Peel%20Trident/pics047_zps80b3dc30.jpg.html)
You can cee the chain tension adjuster on the rear end
Grommet
That is seriously good , that looks like it was pressed ? Have you got any pictures of the internals ?
The internals are just a 3/8 chain, two sprockets, some bronze thrust/shaft bushes and a brass carrier for the output bolt... I'll do some pics when I strip it down for painting.
Grommet
Here is a pic of the internals as promised...
Note this is my version, Ive not seen inside an original Peel set up..
Grommet
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That looks impressive.
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Ive been working out the LED bulbs Ill need for my Peel as I was panicking that my 25watt ac generator wouldnt cope!
It runs a 3W tail light and 18W headlight as standard, on direct AC. The ignition is a separate magneto coil.
The system is 6v and I need to go positive earth for the LEP wiper motor I think.
Ive worked out that Ill have around 4 amps total to play with if I convert to a battery system with an electronic regulator/rectifier unit.
The two LED headlamp bulbs will apparently only draw 2.32A total on high beam and the tail lamps 0.05A so it looks like I might even have an amp spare to charge the battery for the intermittent items like indicators, brake lights, wiper motor and washer pump!
Does any one have any experience of Classic Dynamo & Regulators products Before I spend nearly £130 on bulbs?
I have spoken to them on the phone and they say they will replace any faulty lamps quibble free?
Grommet
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I have used the Dave Lindsey JG electronic regulator on both of my 6 volt Inters and with good results
http://www.davelindsley.co.uk/jg-electronic-regulators.html
Mind you the Westinghouse Gyrostarter puts out better than 25watts!
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The system is 6v and I need to go positive earth for the LEP wiper motor I think.
Grommet
If you are using an original type LEP wiper motor as fitted to a Peel or Bond MkC then its negative earth.
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Thanks for that, I've found that its actually the washer pump thats +ve earth. I dont think the 6V LEP wiper motor is polarity sensitive..
Ive finished my Veedol Cap other than drilling the small vent hole..I opted for an aluminium body and nitrile O rings
Grommet
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Hi
Following my visit to the recent Hammond Open Day I have finally worked out the operation of the Trident body prop...this has been bugging me for quite a while but the cam mechanism is really quite simple once figured out...I'm very grateful to the Hammonds and all others involved for an excellent weekend.
The first pic is of an original prop and the second is my replica prop nearing completion.
The cam piece is a silver steel disc at present and will be ground to shape following heat treatment...and will then be riveted in.
It took me three goes to fold the flanged top tube just the right diameter to fit with a good sliding action inside the lower tube..
With each piece completed on this project I'm always amazed how small the various components actually work out...
Grommet
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Cracking post Grommet!
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I was told they used a boot lid stay from an old Jaguar?
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I'm following this one as the replica she'll I brought come with a gas strut, but I thought that would out strain on the body.
I'm sure we spoke at the Hammond Weekend. I had the green two seater car, but turned back due to the weather.
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I was told they used a boot lid stay from an old Jaguar?
Yes I think so but it would be a bit expensive to buy a £120000 Jag just for the prop!
Here are some pics of the tube folding;
Grommet
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I need to pop round and see your workshop as the work you produce is insanely good
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Steve
Ive been thinking about our discussion on Peel dome blowing.....I might have a go this winter and maybe you can help me when Im ready for a trial run...unless you get there first of course.
Grommet
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I saw a jig for making Peel Trident Domes not so long ago. Have you already got one?
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No not yet... I do have the flange dimensions for the former though. The intention is to blow it from a flange ring and then press the windscreen face in as they did in the factory (Hence they are all slightly different shape!) and not to use a fully shaped former as are used for the commercially available ones. The only obstacle I can see at the moment is evenly heating the sheet prior to blowing....I have some ideas on this though....and will have to experiment as I dont have access to a large temperature controlled sheet oven. I'm thinking bottled CO2 might be good for the blowing, although I also have compressed air.
Grommet
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I think the chap who has the jig may be able to lend it to you - it's up to him.
The windscreen area is formed using a shaped bar that sits inside the bubble and is rotated into position once everything is hot and blown to the desired bubble height.
I don't know if the bubble is blown from underneath, pushing the bubble up. Or perhaps upside down - the bubble hanging under gravity.
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To right ! I want to be involved!
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Ah, The dreaded Bubble blower. A black art that involves a funny leg shake.
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Here are some pics of the tube folding;
Grommet
[/quote]
The way you have shown it, it looks like the only tool used to create the tube was a vice.
Were there really no other tools or techniques required?
Perhaps some narration to accompany the pictures would be additionally useful for those of us wishing to expand our skill set in this direction.
Thanks
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Hi
Yes pretty much the vice and a hammer were the only tools used……
The folded channel section was done by hammering the edges both sides over a piece of angle iron, the slight step at the location for the hook was added afterwards in a similar manner.
The channel was then coaxed around the tube shown in the pic with the aid of a big rubber mallet and by hand (it is only 1.2 mm thick steel)… it was then gripped across the two folded upstands and brought together with the vice so that it conformed to the tube and was then straightened in a few places again using the rubber mallet prior to spotwelding.
I have a great deal of amateur experience with sheet metal work so it comes easily to me as I understand where and how much I can hit the metal to get it where I want it.. Most people can do it….it just takes practice and patience.
I also have a guillotine and a spotwelder but the sheet can be cut equally well with tinsnips or shears or indeed using an electric jigsaw...which was used to rough out the hook bracket before it was finally filed to shape by hand files.
I used an angle grinder and 3mm disc to cut the slot in the lower tube....
If there are any other particular techniques you want me to describe..ask away!
Ive been making the aluminium channel for trim around the sliding door today..I will post some pics once I have bent it to shape..
Grommet
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Thanks for supplying the all important details.
I suspected that there was a hammer somewhere in the process, but I wouldn't have known to use a rubber one, and would likely end up with a lumpier tube as a result.
The spot welds must have been made whilst it was held in conformance by the vice, as metal always has to be over bent to make it want to stay in a newly intended shape.
This means that it has a slight tension locked into its tubular conformatjon. Might even be a tad stronger for same.
By all means do tune us in on your tricks of the trade, as most of us have little idea of what can be created by applying judicous forces through creative means on metal stock.
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This arrangement pictured looks to effectively pivot in front of the centre of the wheel, if understand what I am looking at. So it should have a natural tendency to steer straight ahead, be slightly resistive to steering input. Clearly the steering rod length can be adjusted. But as a set up its sets fair. uNLESS THE WHEEL IS ANGLED IN AT THE BOTTOM THOUGH, IT IS TURNING AROUND THE CENTRE OF THE WHEEL, NOT ON THE CENTRE OF THE WHEEL. a SLIGHT COMPROMISE. bUT ONE OF THE OTHER pEEL REPLICAS HAD A MORE MARKED DESIGN THAT DID THIS. wITHIN ITS PERFORMANCE FRAME, IT PROVED NO GREAT PROBLEM, Was that Steve Fisk? i would think the same would be true here. So a reasonable candidate from the ready engineered donor bins of the world.
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Al
I presume you are responding to the first page of this topic...and my proposed steering set up.
Yes you are right that the wheel will turn around the centre of the wheel to some extent although it is very close coupled...and yes it does effectively pivot on a spot ahead of the tyre contact point.
I dont think any of this will be a serious hinderance though..but will find out some time next year when I am hoping to be ready to test drive it.
Grommet
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Here are the pics of the aluminium section.
I started with some extruded angle as I couldnt find the correct U channel section.
The angle was squashed together in the vice with a bit of 1/8" plate to keep the gap even.
The outer edge was then filed and rounded slightly and I made an aly wheel to fold the corner radiuses. The tight radius needed the aly to be annealed several times.
The third pic is a try out using the wheel.
Its come out alright and just needs the mounting holes drilling...I will do this when it can be offered up to the body..
Grommet
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Does any one know where I can get 3/16 Whitworth (or 10-24 UNC) Aerotite nuts?...these are for my hinge and canopy fixings and all I have managed to find so far are these castle nuts.. The second pic is the original set up..
Thanks
Grommet
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Namrick is the company I use.
Didn't see the size your after, but here is a linky anyway.
https://www.namrick.co.uk/acatalog/U.N.C._Nuts.html
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-16-1-4-5-16-3-8-7-16-1-2-BSW-Whitworth-Nyloc-Nuts-BZP-Steel-Zinc-Plated-/281364661193?var=&hash=item4182a403c9:m:megXNBcqxr65JfcyG3nKkjA
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Thanks for those but I am after Aerotite in particular...I have one lead and have sent an enquiry...
I did find these which are close but they are nearly £3 each!
Grommet
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http://www.bolts-nuts-washers.com/aerotight%20nuts.htm (http://www.bolts-nuts-washers.com/aerotight%20nuts.htm)
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Thanks Malcolm and others, I will chase up that lead tomorrow.
Grommet
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Looks like a correct pedal assembly.
How did you come about this?
Can we have a closer peek please?
I would like to keep perfect side to side balance, which is so easily offset by having just the driver aboard, as in this case, the driver can easily wiegh as much as the entire 195 lb. car.
Therefore I'd be interested in hearing what your unusually mechanical mind can come up with for creating both a set of pedals, and steering wheel that could be both center mounted relative to the track of the vehicle, and easily capable of being slid an appropriate amount off center towards the stock set up's positioning when taking on the additional wieght, and approximately proportional width of a passenger.
For those less familiar with the stock positioning of these controls, we are only dealing with a total lateral translation of about 8".
Thanks,
Steve
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Looks like a correct pedal assembly.
How did you come about this?
Steve
Steve i dont understand your question? If it is where did you get the picture from.. the answer is google...from memory it is the Trident that was only 'half restored' for a while! It is a very un messed with example.
I think that the standard steering box assembly could be moved towards the centre but will clash with the prop if it is dead centre and a longer steering link rod used or the adjusters wound out..(I have about 2" length adjustment on mine). This would only involve drilling two new holes to remount the steering box. You can see one of the bolts in the above pic...
I received a quote from the Aerotite nut supplier but I am still looking as minimum order is 50 nuts and £140 :o
Grommet
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This pic shows how good a fit the Tina engine is in the Peel body!
Grommet
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Morris minor core plugs for the pedals :)
Grommet
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Core! ;D
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You are correct that while I was wondering where your pedals came from, I was staring at your picture of an original car, not your own.
The Morris Minor plugs look like a good start, but obviously are the icing on the cake.
We still need to bake or buy the cake.
I have seen many with correct looking pedal assemblies, so have had reason to hope that they will be findable. .
As far as my proposal to make the driver's positioning adjustable laterally across the width of the car -
I was hoping that you would concoct an arrangement that took advantage of your chain drive steering box's apparently similar amount of offset built in to the length of chain throw that is housed in its case, and could be pivoted about one of its sprocket axis to obtain an equal amount of off center offset, whilst allowing the control point for the steering rods to remain in a stable and stationary position.
This way, you wouldn't even need an Isetta like universal joint just behind the steering wheel to keep the plane of the steering wheel parralell to the face of the dashboard.
I was planning on using two much smaller gas struts to partially counter the offset balance of the wieght of the hood, by mounting these just ahead of the wheel arches, where you hopefully would not feel inclined to slide your feet across whilst entering or exiting the cabin.
Full cable controls to the pedals mounted on some sort of sliding rod or base, and a clever linkage that i haven't quite thought up yet, and one could hopefully get the pedal assembly to go along for the slide / pivoted about steering sprocket arc to follow the steering wheel's commute accros the dash to be both easily and securely locked down at an appropriately offset stance from or at centerline.
Got the idea, but not the nuts and bolts of it yet.
Anyone feel free to chime in with useful suggestions for achieving same.
Thanks,
Steve
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If you are going a non original route and are happy to cut the body about to form slots etc. Im sure there are many alternatives for what you are trying to achieve...
As far as the cake is concerned I have worked out all of the dimensions for the pedals and now have all the components...I simply need to fabricate it all.
The sizes were obtained by studying pictures etc and comparing with the holes in the body..
An example is this set of replica parts on ebay a while back..
Grommet
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Here is a typical cable adjuster from ebay..there are hundreds of types...I think the originals are probably threaded 1/4" BSF .... I have already obtained mine and just need to fabricate the flat bar parts...Bear in mind that mine is automatic so only has two pedals :)
The correct adjuster will also depend on the cable sizes that you end up using.....
Grommet
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Core plugs arrived in the post today so Im now ready for welding and fitting the cable adjusters to the levers. :)
Grommet
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Ive had a go at making an intake grille today..
I have a plastic repro one but its cracked and not very nice.....
The picture is of my first attempt..I will have another few goes but it is difficult to control the metal between the slots and get an even pressing using just crude hand tools..
Grommet
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I bet it is! It's difficult to suggest ways you might overcome the issues without knowing exactly how you're doing it. Something like an MDF former underneath to provide support?
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Thanks for your comment..I did think about an MDF support but I didnt think it would hold up under the forming forces involved...I tried a different method to support the centre bars using some Unistrut channel and some rods...
The result is much better say 8/10 and Im using 1mm polished stainless steel this time rather than aluminium as it is more durable..though harder to form.
I will try a couple more to see if i can improve further but the one I have done will be ok for my replica Peel.
Grommet
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Sooooooo can I have one please !
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Steve
I might end up with some spare ones to dispose of... though I see that youre only 50 miles away... why not bring some steel and you can make your own!
Grommet
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Im thinking about my fuel tank now and whether to do it in steel or vinyl ester resin...I like the original idea of seeing the fuel level through the resin...
Has anyone any experience with ethanol proof fuel tanks as I know that ordinary resin is a no-go?
grommet
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A popular trick back in the fifties was to arrange a second outlet at the bottom of the tank, and another near the top, then join those with a length of clear fuel pipe. That way, the tank is metal, the outlets are properly soldered in, and you can route the pipe somewhere conveniently visible.
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First let me say that your metal fabrication techniques and demonstrated abilities are fantastic, and possibly without peer on this forum.
I still don't get how you managed to make such a great looking stainless steel louvered piece.
I would drive 50 miles just to have the opportunity to find out!
Getting practical experience as an informal apprentice would be over the top.
Too bad there is both the width of a continent an ocean between us.
My brief check on the internet revealed that you are onto something with the vinyl ester base fiberglass tank suggestion, as they do seem to hold up well to the ethanol in today's fuels, whereas polyester resins definitely will not.
My Badsey Bullet prototype's bodywork is constructed exclusively from vinyl ester resins, and I once gave hands on apprentice assistance in constructing a safety cell manufacturer for drag boats, where I was shown to apply the resin with my hands without even using gloves.
I still shudder at the thought that I went along with this some 25 years ago, as it still violates common sense, but it does illustrate the fact that it is relatively friendly stuff, with an easily achievable high level of finish available at relatively low cost.
I can tell you, however, that some 35 years down the road, the Badsey has exhibited considerable creep from the driver's weight reacting on the Badsey Bullet's seat supporting body panels.
So will work better on things like hulls that have weight distributed evenly over a larger area, and are not as visually impacted by the creepage, as it would probably be below the waterline anyway.
For a small tank it should be ideal.
Just don't forget to Post cure.
P.S. for the Badsey, I epoxy/ glass bonded in a moderately large sized and custom contoured plate of wood to a well hidden interior side of the vinyl ester glass panel body work.
I then drilled a pilot hole for a lag bolt that I screwed in length wise into one of the wood panel's edges. The head of the bolt is attached to a hidden flange on the roll bar at just the right angle to counteract the long panel's direction of sag.
Every few months I remember to tighten it up just a cinch, thus slowly reforming the long term imposed deformation over time at a pace that it is willing to accept. It made a good difference from the get go. Certainly impedes further deformation in the unwanted direction, and if I remember to be diligent, and live long enough, should allow for an eventually fairly competent cure😂.
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Steven
Thanks for that useful reply..If I go the resin route I will probably use Atlac 590 resin and the following post cure : 24 hrs at 20°C followed by 3 hrs at 100°C and 1hr at 150°C as recommended by the manufacturer. They have approvals with this resin for underground fuel tanks so I might give it a go anyway as it will be slightly easier than fabricating in steel.
Grommet
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Said it before but following this with great interest and really nice seeing an active building thread going on , more needed ! I've got a couple of trips coming up so nearer xmas I will get in contact see if I can pop round , cheers