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Hello Neal,

I only saw your message yesterday (I need to learn how to change my notifications!). What a fantastic badge.  So much so I ordered one today myself..... except it won't be ready until June next year....!  Did you order yours to be slightly curved?  I also see you decided not to have it pre-drilled.

Here's a thought/mad idea.  How about doing a joint presentation next year at a Kent classic car show - yours could the 'after restoration' and I could bring the 'pre restoration' (I hope Barry isn't reading this!) as well as a 'during restoration' rolling chassis!  Whatever happens, I really want to get to see your, what appears to be, concours example :-)

I have been in touch with Bosch today to see if they still do the starter solenoid as one of mine is kaput....  However they're unfortunately no longer made and there isn't an alternative known to them. Oh well, best keep that old screwdriver handy to bridge the contacts...
Sorry to say that link gives no clue as to a y properties of Hammerite that might distinguish it from any other black metal paint, other than a typically expected "ours is the best" boast..
I've had pretty good luck with a one part epoxy that is a bit difficult to work with, but strong except when continually exposed to gasoline vapors called POR (Paint On Rust) 15.
Sales & Auctions / Re: Pilot Galette Ydral 1953 Aluminium!
« Last Post by Arydigital on October 17, 2017, 11:54:40 AM »
This is pretty cool, anyone know how much this thing sold for? Would be cool if it had an engine so you could drive it around.
You certainly have earned a medal of honor from me for your patience and perseverance!
But with that behind you now, would you suppose that either an acid dip or bead blasting might have been worth your time?
I am not familiar with Hammerite.
How does it stack up to powder coating, other than the presumption that it is significantly less costly?
Why were the collar clamps removed?
Did the tubes that they held together ever get taken apart and put back together by yourself?
I would not envy that labor, but similarly applaud you for yours.
Good thing that they worked with thick metal back then, or you could have wire brushed the dimpled surfaces into a ventilated configuration.
Looking forward to your next post.
Nice Inter photo Stuart. I remember us setting up that shot.  Keep it up mate.
Great work Stuart. I'm guessing you may have cornered the market in ex-council traffic lights!
Well done Stuart. Keep up the good work.  Looking forward to seeing and trying it when I get my disability scooter next month. It's going to be a long ride from Sussex to Oxfordshire though.
 Then of course we come to the engine. As mentioned earlier, originally this Harding was powered by a 148cc Villiers Mk 31C engine, complete with Black Box electrical system. Not your normal fitment to an invalid carriage of this particular type certainly. It is my belief that this particular Harding may well have been a cancelled order for a Harding Consort, the rather rare full-bodied & full luxury flagship of the Harding Range, which, instead of being built up as a Consort, was simply outshopped as a rather special hot-rod standard De Luxe. A "Sleeper", if you like...

 Be that as it may though, I decided long ago that it would be pointlessly expensive to have this 31C engine restored as I already had a complete & rather more functioning 147cc Villiers Mk 26C lump stored in the depths of the shed. This model of engine, in fan cooled form, was fitted to countless carriages between 1947 & 1961, and indeed my particular engine had seen service in a c.1954 Tippen Coventry until being removed when the carriage was cut up for scrap in the '70s.  Upon lining up the 26C lump into approximate position within the chassis earlier today, it was very satisfying to find that the front engine mounts lined up perfectly with just a tiny bit of filing needed for clearance.

 And so that is how the Hammond Harding stands as of 14th October 2017. All is painted, the rear end is all attached and the engine is half-in. Future jobs are to reattach the front forks & steering. Fabricate rear engine mounts from scratch & install Albion 3-speed gearbox (again currently sat on the bench). Then it's woodwork time as the footbox and seat are again fabricated from scratch.

 Watch this space as the Hammond Harding slowly comes back to life...
 With the chassis tidy, it was now time for some reassembly for the first time since at least 1986, and also to look at how to place the engine, of which more anon. For the panel-work, which mainly consists of the rear wings and rear light/number plate panel, all are attached by pretty hefty nuts & bolts and even heftier metal tube clamps, which by the looks of them, have their roots in Victorian times. In being removed all those years ago, instead of being slid lengthwise off the chassis tubes are they were meant to be, they had simply been prised apart by Geoff Capes on his afternoon off in order to pass them over the chassis tubes! Clearly nobody had ever given a thought to ever trying to reattach them. Ever-larger pliers, mole grips, ever bulging biceps. Nothing it seemed was going to shift these clamps back into position! Hmmm, problem. How to do this? Then my gaze fell upon the No 6 vice upon our bench. Hmmmm, now if that could be unbolted....  And so at last said clamps finally yielded back into shape under under half a ton of best Draper accessory, held vertically upon one's knee. It might ruin one's creases, but it gets the job done!
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