scootacar - what type of flasher unit ?

[richard]

does anyone have an original one ? is it just the standard lucas type ? just that i bought a nice little black box type flasher unit and it came with wiring diagram showing the dash switch as Raydyot - as in this diagram - the terminals are marked the same. the scootacar switch manufacturer i think was previously known - by me anyway  

[Bob Purton]

The flasher unit you use depends on the bulb values, as a scootercar uses one pair of pigs ear lamps the same as an Isetta you can use a lucas Isetta unit.

[Trident]

 
I thought the Mk1 Scootacar was originally fitted with PMG indicators. Not Lucas Pigs ears.
Early Scoots had rounded PMG indicator lenses, then later cars had the sloping style common type PMGs.

[Bob Purton]

Sorry, I didnt mean pigs ears as in lucus pigs ears but a pair of ear like lights on the roof. As I recall both my ex scootacars did have PMG lights. Just testing who is awake!

[Big Al]

I thought the Mk1 Scootacar was originally fitted with PMG indicators. Not Lucas Pigs ears.
Early Scoots had rounded PMG indicator lenses, then later cars had the sloping style common type PMGs.

That is I understand it. The rounded PMG is the hard one to get. The later unit might be tricky to get a perfect match as there seem to be a number of versions with even red and clear lenses. It must have had relatively good use as an aftermarket unit. The early unit seems very much more elusive.

As to the question of the switching. These companies do seem to have cribbed some designs off each other so maybe there is a very similar PMG version. Not researched the switches on mine nor what was used so I cannot really comment. Despite being vandalized years ago my car has a pretty intact dash so what is damaged can be identified. My mystery remains the rear lights. Until the paint is cleaned back it is hard to be clear. It looks like it did not have the light the experts suggest should be there. The only proof is to examine the GRP for mountings and repairs. So have to wait on that. I have bought what was fitted prior to the car going off the road, not a common light either and Stuart said it fitted some other rare micro, Peel? If so I am lucky.

Single indicators are a bit tricky to find flasher units for. I have used the side repeater units off things like Rovers as they are low wattage. The other dodge is a second wasted bulb wired up out of sight, Scootacar, I think the engine bay might suit. The advantage of that is you can bridge the repeater and have a service light in the engine bay when it packs up at night. 

[Bob Purton]

You may have to look a little harder for them but not that hard!

As I said, just buy a British Isetta one or look on the internet.  they are everywhere. Here's one for a start...
http://www.esussexautoelectricspares.co.uk/ourshop/cat_284367-FLASHER-UNITS.html     For tractor cabs.

You can also use a non load sensitive modern unit , the flash rate remains the same what ever the wattage load.

[Mark Green]

I bought a flasher unit off of eBay UK for our Frisky with just one bulb. The flasher works great. User name is " keep_driving"on eBay UK.

[richard]

my only querie was about what was ORIGINALLY fitted. as some might have guessed i love original period fittings . i bought this black box flasher unit in its wrapping and with the diagram showing the scootacar type switch , so i just wondered if this type of flasher unit was current at the time . its actually 6 volt as i bought it for use on my Gordon or Bond - if i ever bother to retro fit indicators . it does look  a bit more likely a 50's item than 60's

[Big Al]

Ah, but are any of these 15w. Some of these older light units cannot take the shear unadulterated power of the 21w bulb. They star or melt - see Brit Schmitt Hella brake light. I am picky enough to like my lighting original if I can get it. Possibly why I get accused of selling wrong bits but I do not want them even if they are marque club supplied!  I bought the correct short Schmitt rear festoons but no one would buy them even at 45p. So much for originality! One of the great things about doing Mannheim is that I have several draws full of NOS bulbs etc. Much now unavailable and bought for peanuts in the great years of that autojumble.
Perhaps my comment on hiding extra bulbs now makes more sense. A resistance would do the same job.

Yes it does make a difference as you run your microcar in the rain with its lights and wiper on and the poor old dynostart is struggling to keep up with additional drain. Chuck in your sat nav and phone, a radio and it will fail to keep up with demand.



Richard. The Lloyd, I think, Borward and Goggo use what looks like that type of flasher unit. The value of the unit is often given by a coloured dot of paint. It is fitted on those cars as an interrupter in the sidelight circuit turning them into indicators whether the sidelights are on or off. I have not tried one as just a flasher unit. Clearly Raydot are saying it works.
Good canister flashers have the circuit diagram etched or printed on them as there are many variations and loads.

[Bob Purton]

Good point about a 21 watt bulb destroying the plastic lens of certain light units. As I understand it though the modern non load sensitive type will perform in exactly the same manner what ever bulb is used 15 or 21 watt. I may be wrong!

[Big Al]

Good point about a 21 watt bulb destroying the plastic lens of certain light units. As I understand it though the modern non load sensitive type will perform in exactly the same manner what ever bulb is used 15 or 21 watt. I may be wrong!

The speed of the flash needs to be within MOT parameters. So a 15w in a 21w system will flash at a different speed and so on as values change till the resistance (not sure it is resistance I am looking for, impedance? A cold bulb has a lower resistance than a hot one plus the flasher unit has a switching element too. Whatever it) is not sufficient to trip the system. If there is some new unit then I do not know about it.

I recall one of my Eribas had a strange indicator slave unit, something of a flash in a Pan. Sorry I will go away now.

[blob]

I always thought the convention type switch was Trico, so maybe it was the same for the flasher unit.

[richard]

Hi blob but surely the wiring diagram proves that the scootacar switch that carries no name must be raydyot

[Bob Purton]

Good point about a 21 watt bulb destroying the plastic lens of certain light units. As I understand it though the modern non load sensitive type will perform in exactly the same manner what ever bulb is used 15 or 21 watt. I may be wrong!

The speed of the flash needs to be within MOT parameters. So a 15w in a 21w system will flash at a different speed and so on as values change till the resistance (not sure it is resistance I am looking for, impedance? A cold bulb has a lower resistance than a hot one plus the flasher unit has a switching element too. Whatever it) is not sufficient to trip the system. If there is some new unit then I do not know about it.

I recall one of my Eribas had a strange indicator slave unit, something of a flash in a Pan. Sorry I will go away now.

AS I understand it the non load sensitive units are designed so that if a bulb fails the flashing speed remains the same, thats why I concluded that you could use a 15w bulb.

[Big Al]

AS I understand it the non load sensitive units are designed so that if a bulb fails the flashing speed remains the same, thats why I concluded that you could use a 15w bulb.

Pass. I do not see how it would work other than being an independent on/off relay with a bimetallic strip, old technology, or something similar and PC board or chippy. If that is the case I would be changing to LED technology and saving the old dynostart a lot of work.