Siba ignition mystery

[Big Al]

Examples are illustrations, literature is information to be read and digested. I follow my star, you can yours. Some are duds, others orbit, but the still others have the most interesting and unexplained trajectories.

[richard]

great to see sense from dave and bob . steven and al will always see another side to it all , and al seems to have turned both the last two topics to his own personal rant site . bob you got HALF way through that of al's WELL DONE !! 

[super-se7en (Malc Dudley)]

At the end of the day we all have choice.
We can source, make, adapt or beg for our parts, or we can just buy them from other people that have already done this.
Its just you may have to pay a little more. But you have a choice. There is no point moaning about the rules because you do not have to buy them. Its like moaning about a TV program you do not like when all you have to do is switch off.
On a positive note i think half of the enjoyment of rebuilding our cars is finding or making parts and sharing information with like minded people.
I have had my say- I will get my coat.

[steven mandell]

any [/i]automotive condensor will work - go to Halfords!)
- Some want it to look right, so reuse the clip.

Thanks Dave.
This is all that I have needed to know all along, and is why Rumcars is the group to join.
Would the MOC have allowed this info to be made so public as it would jeopardize their sales to the ignorant?
I would feel a little better about their sales scheme if they let this fact be known to potential buyers.
But not better enough to pay twice as much plus postage to the US , plus waiting for a week or two, plus membership dues to a club that specializes in a car that I do not own so they can provide the privilege of  free membership/ magazines to their oldest members.
Free countries gravitate towards competitive free markets.  So this type of enforced market bullying will likely soon go the way of the Dodo bird.  Besides, to the American in me- it just seems wrongly spirited to take advantage of information that they should otherwise share, or say that their enforced premiums subsidize their development of  products, whilst this one should only have been marketed at a premium price if some effort was expended to make it appear more original.

Now for the next important point, as I did promptly travel a whole mile to my local auto parts store and just spend $6 on a similar looking can with a separate strap over bracket.
Can the old bracket be soldered to the new can without damaging it?
If so, anybody have any tips on an appropriate technique?
If I can get this info and also find a way to check to see if my efforts toward this end have damaged the unit internally- I may have a go at it.
If not I may have try epoxying it and hope that they don't run too hot. :

[DaveMiller]

...
Can the old bracket be soldered to the new can without damaging it?
...
If not I may have try epoxying it and hope that they don't run too hot. :

You might get away with it, but it's not something I'd try.  A healthy condensor will not be damaged by putting 12V directly across it (you can't "short" it to death) as that's what happens in use, but it certainly could be damaged by excess heat melting the internal insulation.  I'm guessing that in manufacture they weld or solder by application of something very hot but very brief, so the heat doesn't have time to sink through?

Remember also that you need the case to conduct through to the mounting (earthed) - if there's a barrier of epoxy between clip and casing, that won't happen.

[Grant Kearney]

The originals were soldered to the bracket so I would attempt it.  I have successfully re-soldered originals that have broken off the bracket (due to bad vibrations from a failing 250 Villiers).
At 6 dollars it's worth the risk 

[Bob Purton]

Examples are illustrations, literature is information to be read and digested. I follow my star, you can yours. Some are duds, others orbit, but the still others have the most interesting and unexplained trajectories.

Sorry Al. As you say, we all have our style. Frustration just got the better of me!

[Big Al]

Frustration, with popomatic dice in a small Peel dome. i have no probs with folk disagreeing with me. I confess to being naughty by asking the wrong sort of questions. I think this game is done and we are back to the thread.

Would the solder used be a rather a soft lower temperature one? Perhaps applied to the case as a blob and then heat applied to the strap on its being mounted, a little like a pre soldered pipe joint? The flow of solder is bigger than the hole so its located until it fails or fractures. Someone more switched on perhaps could comment.

The real selling point for me is the spring clip connector. Do not know why it just appeals to me.

[Grant Kearney]

The real selling point for me is the spring clip connector. Do not know why it just appeals to me.

Probably the same reason I prefer original Bosch and Siba points with the same spring clip, simple, effective and totally reliable. 
Ensure you 'tin' the end of the wire before putting into the spring clip.  I learnt the hard way, a broken wire to the condenser on my first Bond was a regular reason for breaking down, happy days 

[Bob Purton]

I would just use some tinmans solder with some Bakers number 3 and apply it quickly with a good hot copper soldering iron. Applied via the hole I would have thought. That's assuming you have the old gas heated soldering irons. I'm fortunate to have inherited all my fathers old soldering irons. 

[steven mandell]

Got it.
Just the way I got an old timer to solder the lead to  my NSU's dynastart back on 20 years ago, without heat damaging anything around it.  A large amount of heat stored in a heavy externally heat sourced iron, touched for just the minimal amount of time to the work piece,  and then withdrawn quickly, immediately followed by the application of the solder.
Now if I can just get US equivalents to the solder and if I am guessing right- flux that you are referring to, I will look around for a suitably sized and tapered piece if iron and give it a try.

[Bob Purton]

No, the solder is applied to the iron and transferred to the job from the iron. Or course this will only work if the casing of your new condenser is steel using the stuff I mentioned. If you want to solder steel to alloy that's another matter and outside my experience, remember I only know caveman skills.  Special fluxes do exist for that purpose all the same.

[steven mandell]

What is tinmans solder?
Is that a description e.g. a solder for repairing tin soldiers or the like, or a brand name?
What are its components and percentages of composition?
Same questions for bakers number 3.
thanks

[Bob Purton]

As I said, I'm very old school, there were two main types of solder, Tinmans for sheet metal work , general metalwork and there was plumbers solder for wiping lead pipe joints. I'm talking about pre multicore here. You can use almost anything though, buy some modern solder that plumbers use for copper pipe work and give that a go. So long as all the surfaces are clean and fluxed it will be ok.

[richard]

sorry to interrupt but how can you tell a one direction siba dynastart from a two direction one - at a glance , with no access to the points . would there just be a lot more wires running to the points cover ? thanks , i only have a photo