Author Topic: How to remove front shocks on Heinkel Trojan  (Read 1264 times)

lemser

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How to remove front shocks on Heinkel Trojan
« on: June 27, 2014, 09:51:58 PM »
Left side front suspension is extremely soft and the wheel "bounce" when braking so shock and/or coil needs to be refurbished or replaced. Believe coil is broken and/or shock is missing oil. Anyone know how to remove the shock (will check shock before removing the coil)? In the top there are 4 small nuts and a larger center nut. Which ones to remove (the center or all five) and should I remove shock from the beneath or the top?
If shock is missing oil, how much oil should I add and what type? I was thinking of using 15 mineral oil, same as used for classic motorcycle front forks.

Best regards Per Lemser
« Last Edit: June 27, 2014, 10:07:06 PM by lemser »

marcus

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Re: How to remove front shocks on Heinkel Trojan
« Reply #1 on: June 28, 2014, 07:58:59 AM »
It is a long time since I repaired mine, andcannot fully remember the process, but first of all I strongly advise you to get a Parts Book and Workshop Manual from the H-T club because then you will know if you have any missing parts. The club also sell damper oil. There might also be useful information on the H-T Club's Members section

If I remember right you will need a peg spanner; I adapted one from my old angle ginder: the pins were too far apart, so I hack sawed a slot in the handle, squashed the work end in a vice to get the pins closer, then welded the slot. There is a spring lock-washer too, and one of mine was completely seized in and work-hardened so all I could do was to lathe it out very slowly then fit a new one.


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Big Al

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Re: How to remove front shocks on Heinkel Trojan
« Reply #2 on: June 28, 2014, 08:48:58 AM »
Not straight forward and one of the big probs with the Trienkel, front suspension.

The spring exits the top of the tube. There should be three fasteners holding the triangular plate on. The damper shaft attaches to the middle in a fluster of rubbers and washers. Four fastners suggests a prior visit and issues.

To remove the damper requires that you remove the rocking hub carrier assembly from the ali King Pin/Steering casting. It removes from below after the collets remove loosening it from the spring. This is not to difficult IF the silent bloc/metalastic bushings are not rusted to the stub axles. If they are, they can total buggers to shift ending in having to be destroyed. Indeed it is probably easier to fight such a job on the bench, which means removing the kingpin. Itself a potential battle royal. If you want the spring out you need to do that anyway, or drop the whole front axle, 12 bolts and a union from memory.

Once apart you might find that you have an Armstrong damper. Oh dear! Boge dampers seem to have bits to repair them. Armstrong, nil point! Marcus is correct on the damper.

In pulling all this apart you might find more than you bargained for as there are many and varied things that can wear or be put together incorrectly. Big amongst this are worn suspension rocker bearings. The club are finally out of new stock and looking for replacements. The needle roller is standard but to have two with an intergral space is not. So there is hope as a bit of engineering should solve the missing spacer. If your car has already destroyed its suspension stub axle you maybe on bronze bushings. The stub axle itself was nitride toughened so once the hard surface has gone it wears fast. Its a press fit into the meaty rocker at a large pressure. As I understand it a hard steel pin would not grip, might shear, in this design of construction. So the less hard and durable option was used. The outer rocker bearing inserts can wear but survive better. So if this all looks horrible you need to think about if you can put it back together without worrying about it or will you want to fix it at the same time. Hopefully you will not have to.

As above, if restored correctly the axle will remove relatively easy. There might be a plan to rebuild this subassembly over the winter if it is not very good. In the days when these cars were in regular use the Trieklenaut always had a spare rebuilt axle ready. Any major issue was resolved with an axle change and then repair of the removed one under minimal stress.

Lastly. On no account hit the ali suspension casting with a hammer. They are not that strong, the metal is over 50 years old and crystallized a bit, and will shear off the steering arms and crack around the damper tube insert joint due to expanding corrosion, in the main (the steering rack brackets do the same and this is a serious failure -have you looked?). The RHD special casting with extra arm is practically extinct and at least 3 cars are sat without. I have several spares but the owners of those cars seem convinced they will find a replacement for a few quid. Good luck with that. LHD are far less of a problem, but the supply will run out. Besides it is needless to damage your existing one even if it can be most uncooperative.
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marcus

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Re: How to remove front shocks on Heinkel Trojan
« Reply #3 on: June 28, 2014, 09:17:58 AM »
Glad you mentioned the number of bolts Al! I remember 3 around the outside and one central one, was starting to think my memory had gone when Per mentioned 5!

Can't remember, but think it is wise to compress the unit when unscrewing the nuts to prevent a sudden explosion!
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lemser

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Re: How to remove front shocks on Heinkel Trojan
« Reply #4 on: June 28, 2014, 10:52:20 AM »
Correct, 3 (not 4) bolts/nuts in the top and a larger central nut.

So, in short how to remove the damper only:
1: remove rocking hub carrier assembly
2: Remove the 3 nuts in top and the larger central nut in top (will the coil "explode" when I remove the 3 nuts in the top or..?)
3: Pull out damper from below.
Correct?

Any one got a link for "exploded view" of the front suspension/damper? I plan to do a comprehensive mechanical overhaul in the winter time, but because of Danish rules I need to have the car fixed before end of next week because it has to pass a vehicle inspection (not sure of the correct word but called MOT in UK). Only thing missing to be fixed for passing vehicle inspection is the front suspension.

The car is LHD and appears to have been maintained regularly. Bolt/nuts in front suspension looks new so must have been replaced at some time by previous owner, and bearings has been greased, so hopefully its not that bad.

Best regards Per.


« Last Edit: June 28, 2014, 11:04:25 AM by lemser »