Getting ready to finally drop the engine out of my Trojan, as both servicing the Dynastart, and checking the valve timing needs doing.
Will the flywheel puller from my Messer engine Nobel suffice here?
Do I need any other special tools for these jobs?
Anyone got the cam timing specs?
My car came with an visibly verifiable rebuilt motor, but the rebuilder/ installer obviously was not what one would call professionally familiar with these power plants.
I say this because the wires going to the regulator box were arranged incorrectly, with the second widest wire having the insulation burned off right down to where the mass of the engine provided an effective heat sink,
and the carburetor sprays fuel out its venturi when idling, which it seems to want to do at a higher speed than one would assume typical for a single cylinder four stroke engine.
In case you are wondering, with Al's expert guidance, I have already corrected the wiring, with the result that the engine spins over well about half the time that I've energized the staring circuit.
The other half of the time it stalls before the starter cuts in, and will make either a wire under the dash/ a wire from the regulator to the dynastart get alarmingly hot very quickly. Most disconcerting, and to be avoided at all costs, so many starting attempts are aborted in the first half second or so to avoid letting the smoke out of the electrical system. For as we know the system runs on smoke, for if you allow it to escape it doesn't work anymore.
Curiously, one of my Nobels has a dependable approximate 3/4 second delay before it overcomes the resistance of the compression stroke, but then spins freely w/o any sign of letting the smoke out first.
Al also guided me through several needle height adjustments, and fine tuning of the carburetor, and I adjusted the valve clearances, but still get the gas spray out the carb's air inlet where the air filter should be fitted.