RUMCars Forum
General Category => Unusual Microcar Discussion => Topic started by: 1bubble10 (paul smith) on April 09, 2015, 07:33:20 PM
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Hi all.
Alan Evans is currently building a replica P50 for me (I have always desired a Peel P50 but they have become financially so far out of reach and added to the fact they exist in small numbers this is my only hope of ever having something vaguely similar. Thought that some of you may be interested to see some progress pictures of the build.
Week one:-
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Week 2:
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More week 2:
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Even more of week 2:
It was a toss up between blue or yellow. Went for yellow in the end as I wanted it to match the colour of my ear plugs (before they go in my ears not after).
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Week 3:
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More of week 3:
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Week 4:
Thats all I have for the moment - I shall post week 5 as soon as I get them.
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Looking really good mate , got to take them on a drive when mines done
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Looking good!
Oddly enough a project I am working on needs a perspex dome to cover it. Last night while checking measurements I started thinking of Tridents and P50s, then I started thinking of what colours suit them best, and I figued yellow or grass green, si thumbs up for your colour choice!
Has anyone else noticed that the vast majority of modern cars are in just two colours? Silver or Dark! Hooray for a bit of colour!
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I know what you mean - I have never owned a silver car in my life and probably never will. However, I have owned 6 yellow cars. Given the option I also avoid metallic paints but that is only my preference as everybody likes something different. The colour for my p50 was a struggle. I particularly like them in red and especially blue as the white bumpers and chrome seam to come alive. I opted for yellow in the end because being small I really do want to be seen by other road users whilst I am scooting around in it. The down side of the yellow is that the white bumpers get a little lost (I have opted for white wheels hoping to give the white bumpers some reinforcement (don't know it it will work but will have to see).
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Instead of yellow why didn't you go for an Orange Peel ? ;D Even little Bambi the deer is an orangey colour.
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Aye, his mum thought he was a ray of sunshine. The David Dickinson of fauns.
With yellow the bumpers could be black. I think that might be a to bold a statement though.
Ali trim tends to show better against pastalle shades of yellow, chrome against primary yellow.
But I agree that small cars need to be seen. Who is going to make the smallest 'jam sandwich' police car in the world? It could catch on as they would fit in Police Boxes - oh no, showing my age there! Great for Policing supermarkets and such, out dragging the footpad scooters and folk kurb crawling near the Red Mullett. I vote Root, he has Policeman's feet. (I think they came with a New Guinea numberplate off a mobile canteen......)
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Instead of yellow why didn't you go for an Orange Peel ? ;D Even little Bambi the deer is an orangey colour.
Joking aside I am fond of orange cars (flat colour of course) - although orange peel is good pet name for an orange one, i'll have to stick with lemon peel now - yellow is a bit unfortunate on a peel as it looks too much like a minion - although minions are rather cute and so is the car that it resembles, bless!!??
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Hope you don't feel a lemon in it! ;D ;D ;D Sorry, couldn't resist that. I've gone a bit daft since driving mine about in '76. and jealous. You will have fun with it, I know. 8)
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week 5 photos:-
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More of week 5:-
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Looking good. I ireckon that shade of yellow is easily strong enough to contrast nicely with white bumpers...
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Fingers crossed
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I must admit that I hate yellow and black together! It's up to you, but I hope you go for white!
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Don't worry Marcus I shall not be having black bumpers they shall definitely be white and if i feel they are not working I shall live with it untill I think they are working.
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As an Essex poet once wrote
'Bigger brained blockheads often acquire,
Black and orange cars.
Premature ejaculation drivers,
Their soft top's got roll bars.'
And for Marcus, if he needed one, the clue is Dylan Howe, probably - though the recording is Charlie Charles.
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It's your car, have it how you want it!
But you obviously want it how I would, so I look forward to seeing progress and completion photos and video!
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Ah, Charlie Charles, great bassist with Ian Dury and the Blockheads. Dylan Howe is fine drummer and sone of the great Steve Howe of Yes.
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Ah, Charlie Charles, great bassist with Ian Dury and the Blockheads. Dylan Howe is fine drummer and sone of the great Steve Howe of Yes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1KN2qvtosmM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YF1yFRrVPqU
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Ahhhhh, that's the one Barry, great stuff!
Oops, better get back on topic!
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(Beep Beep , the Playmates )
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^ Yup, got it!
Going back to yellow and white I suddenly remembered those lovely Austin/Frazer-Nash/Hudson Metropolitans which were often in fairly pale yellow and white, as well as Blue and pink + white :
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C601621
Looks good to me!
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I agree that pale yellow and white do work well together - however, in your face yellow and white I am not so sure. I am having white wheels too, so not stopping just at the bumpers - thought they may need some company!!
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Pale yellow and white, a classic combo, see china from early 20th century. Yellow Peels have been done before. This Jiff coloured boy for example.
(http://)
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In your face yellow and white bumpers?? Not sure?? The blue with the white is a different story!! :)
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In your face yellow + white looks fine to me. In my opinion very few cars look good in pale blue, MGA being an rare example which does.
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That would be the bucket seats.
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Ok chaps we have now got to the end of week 6 and here are the latest progress photos:-
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More week 6:-
Not too keen on the mirrors - may have to change these at a later date (see first picture last post)!
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Last of week 6:-
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Coming on well.
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Agree with you on the mirrors. everything else looks very tasty.
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I know what you mean about the wing mirrors they are same as mine , but they have to be this way for the msva then you can do what you like , that a meaty wiper motor to !
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Yes I thought that about the wiper motor too, looks more powerful than the petrol engine that will be propelling the thing. May be replacing that too with a more compact unit like that which is used on isettas.
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There are what looks like small wiper kits on Bobs link - Boating
http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine/manual-hand-operated-windscreen-wipers/roca-w05-windscreen-wiper-motor-kit-with-arm-and-blade-12-volt-521011-717301
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What PCD are the wheels? They look like they are to fit the Bashan Quad hubs?
I can get the hubs, but can not find any wheels to suit.
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What PCD are the wheels? They look like they are to fit the Bashan Quad hubs?
I can get the hubs, but can not find any wheels to suit.
I am not in possession of the vehicle yet (an know very little of its specifications). Alan Even of Bamby Cars is building this car for me - you would be best to contact him for this information. Sorry I can't be more helpful than that
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There are what looks like small wiper kits on Bobs link - Boating
http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine/manual-hand-operated-windscreen-wipers/roca-w05-windscreen-wiper-motor-kit-with-arm-and-blade-12-volt-521011-717301
Thanks for the link - I shall give this some further thought.
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Went to pistons in the park to day Paul and a mate drove my peel around, I let a few others drive it but I started to attract some odd people who thought it was there right to drive it as others were , but what ever still a good show , the pcd is the same that fits the bashan hubs that your looking for , you will need spacers because it will rub the calliper, these are the ones Ive got , they are about 20quid each , I need 2 more at some point if you want to do a joint order , I'm sure they are shipped in from America
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For a small and short show it was good, and from my point of view most enjoyable to see Steve's peel in the plastic. It did steel the show and when I was driving it around it felt like I was a celeb surrounded by Japanese flash happy photographers. One lady who was about to take a shot of a Ferrari caught me out the corner of her eye and aborted the shot to ensure I was not a missed opportunity, it was the Peel she was interested in, she must have used her entire 35mm film getting the car from every possible angle (although It may have been me she was interested in but I guess I'll just never know).
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Meanwhile in another field, on a disused runway, Root and I found genuine Peel wheels with tyres. Topped off with some Villiers airfilters and other misc stuff. Nice local jumble. £2 entry. Brill.
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Ex go-kart probably . Trobikes / karts are the same I think too . Nice one ;)
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Week 2:
Having a coffee after a bad afternoon on a BX that has just managed to fail elsewhere each rime I repair something.
The king pin pictured is a long way from the centre of the wheel on this. No idea what the original looked like mind you. However, as in the Tri Tech, (also Freeway by the sound of it) this wheel hub is going to exhibit making a semi circle around the king pin centre, rather then rotate open the centre line of the king pin. As such it will take a great deal more input to turn the wheel, moving an entire structure with friction, then it rotating on a spot under the tyre. The geometry will promote inaccurate steering, as their is leverage of length between turn centre and effect. So any high speeds might be alarming, with slow speed steering heavy.
Now this is an observation, not a criticism, as I do not know what the intention for the car is. Unlike a Tri Tech, its probably not going to have greater performance than the car it follows. For hobby use, therefore, its probably not a issue, should it prove to exhibit what I suggest. If it does 'get in the way' of enjoying it, then I would point to this design, as being the source of handling issues. Be interesting to see how it turns out.
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This pic shows the running gear of a real one. You are right, the Bamby P50 kingpin will send the wheel hub orbiting around it rather than axising on it. Quite what that does to the handling I dont know either. I guess its just what happens when you buy a Chinese quad and alter it enough to turn it into a P50 rep rather than design a purpose built one from scratch.. Like you say, not a criticism but more a consequence.
I wouldnt think it would make the steering heavy enough to be an issue though.
The Evans's have obviously made a few by now and tested them well so cant really see a big problem.
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I'm trying to understand what you to are talking about because it sounds interesting , I don't know any thing about steering Geometry bit worrying as I've built the steering already , ive only had experience driving my peel at about 15mph , slow steering feels fine , get abit of speed and it's really twitchy , I thought it needed a steering damper , or is it set up wrong ?
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Steve - I would imagine that once the camber and tracking have been set up correctly then the handling would improve considerably. It may be worth speaking with Alan Even to see if he tracks the wheels in at the front or out at the front and by how much. It will be a bit twtichy on the basis that the suspension is on rubber (not springs) and the steering rack is such that the steering wheel needs little turn to get a large response at the wheels. When I have seen videos of original peels being driven at speed the driver is constantly making adjustments to the steering even on a straight road.
Alan claims that he has improved the handling of his replicas - weight distribution across the front wheels is more or less equal unlike the originals so less likely to lift a wheel. The P50 and the trident are not fast machines even at the top end - I should imagine the nerve goes before getting anywhere near 38mph (flat out). Wear in steer on any car is not a good thing!
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It is interesting what you are saying about the semi-circular movement - once I have got the car I shall report my findings on the handling.
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"When I have seen videos of original peels being driven at speed the driver is constantly making adjustments to the steering even on a straight road."
Welcome to the world of microcar driving!
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"When I have seen videos of original peels being driven at speed the driver is constantly making adjustments to the steering even on a straight road."
Welcome to the world of microcar driving!
I have never experienced it on my isetta, bond, or piaggio ape 50
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I never had steering and wobbling problems with my P50 in '76 as far as I can remember. Even driving it mostly at top speed of 40 mph, (caught by a following motorist) even faster down hill. Oh, the joy of the yesteryears. :D ;D
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This has been discussed on a previous thread, I forget which.
In a nutshell if you have something to turn, that is able to roll, you can demonstrate to yourself with leggo, meccano or what ever.
First take a wheel and make a hub with a kingpin such that the wheel is as near to the centre of the point of rotation of the king pin. On most two wheel axles this will fall within the tyre area on the ground. Turn the kingpin and the wheel pivots with a slight roll to one way. Return in the opposite direction and it will slightly roll in the opposite direction, this is progression, to allow the wheel to turn some 60 degrees.
In fact most cars have toe in to aid directional stability and caster angle. In other words they will tend to want to go in a straight line, rather than turn. Thus it is that to manoeuvre and protect your tyres you should creep as you manoeuvre, allowing the rolling wheel freedom to take up the angle input progressively, rather than by force, stood still.
None the less the energy required to turn the wheel is not to great and lightens as soon as the wheel is in motion. The movement of the trackrod is short, equal to the degree of turn and does not extend far beyond the kingpin if well designed.
Take the model of the Tri Tech and have some factor of three wheel widths from the kingpin centre of rotation out to where the wheel is. Now the wheel is not pivoting about itself on a spot. It has to physically roll the wheel in the direction of the steering input. It describes a semi circle rather than tiny loop round a point under the tyre. It needs more energy put into the control to do this, and the resistance to movement is greater, not least through leverage that does not exist in the first model.
To acheave full lock the track rod has to travel will past the king pin in a long movement. It, itself, has to describe a slight semi circlular motion to achieve lock to lock. Thus the steering input is proportional, not constant. And suspension movement, and more than likely the different length of track rod to suspension member, create another problem. To achieve up and down movement means a change in the length of steering travel by a proportion, too. So the steering force required to turn is heavier, not constant, and the suspension movement is likely to alter the value of the steering input, in differing amounts, in differing places, as bumps are absorbed. Attempting to smooth out these deflections of direction by steering wheel risks the car loading the suspension the other side of the car and finding the car over corrects. At about 45 mph in a standard Tri Tech the amount of feed back is beyond the ability of the steering control to correct fast and smoothly enough. The car effectively has a steering axle tank slapper and goes out of control. As you approach that point the loadings to correct the steering increase markedly, making accurate input impossible. The imbalanced changing loadings, plus the leverage of the wheels well away from the king pin, continually fight any kind of control. Its a very frightening experience and not unlike a rear blowout on a two/one trike.
The theory that covers much of this is Akerman angle theory. Though on three wheelers it is more difficult to follow. A read through that, and model tests, should provide you with an idea of the possible problems. On the Tri Tech my mod was to increase the track of the car with a spacer mounted on the inner stub axle either side. This made the distance of the wheel to king pin less of the full axle length. I altered the drum and wheels to 10 inch on scooter tyres to bring the wheel centre in board, again shortening the king pin to wheel distance. The car then became drivable at 50 mph and was lighter to drive. The owner seemed happy, but has done few miles.
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The P50 replicas are not going to reach anywhere near the sort of speeds you are talking about - P50 are also inherently unstable so cornering at speed (30mph) would be very gentle - anything less than gentle would be taken at lower speeds. The front suspension on the Bambys and Steves P50 is not a spring with shocks system (a thick engine mount rubber which at best compresses a millimetre or two on negotiating bumps). The answer is in the test drive which I shall do some sort of report on at a later date - but I am thinking that based on the above i would expect any symptoms to be not noticeable.
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I hope so. The original car must have had a similar problem, as how do you put a king pin inside such a small wheel? I think most of the Peel replicas are being made for fun. So this should not deture folk from what they are doing. I think making a Peel handle like a racing car would be rather difficult. In effect it would end up as a Kart with a Peel shell on it. I have heard of no one heading off in that direction, so the shared knowledge is probably handy enough for all.
As for Akerman, there are great cars, and racing cars, out there, that threw away these theories! If it works as an answer to the problem, then its good enough to go. That said it is interesting to be aware of 'what you should do'. If microcar makers followed that, half the cars would not exist. But there is enjoyment in tuning out the errors they made, and increasing the efficiency of the design.
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"When I have seen videos of original peels being driven at speed the driver is constantly making adjustments to the steering even on a straight road."
Welcome to the world of microcar driving!
I have never experienced it on my isetta, bond, or piaggio ape 50
Well steering wander is common on a lot of microcars and indeed a lot of big cars of the 1950's. Its called Hollywood steering appropriatly named after all those film scenes of folk driving along with the driver constantly throwing the steering wheel from side to side. ;D
In my experience I have found single front wheeled cars like the ones you mention dont suffer from it but Isetta's and Schmitts often do, both my schmitt and my current Isetta 'Thumper' did quite badly when I first got it, sorted now though by swapping to radials and getting most of the play out of the steering system also correct toe in. I have never experience the steering shake of death that some Isetta drivers have had though. Steering geometry is a complex thing but as Al said it either works or it doesnt. The one I can never understand is the Nobel/fulda set up, talking more the suspension here rather than the steering as the king pin set up is pretty normal. The suspension is however a bit balmy, wheel hubs bolted to each end of a single leaf spring with no wishbone or any other set up there to resist forward or backward thrust. However in practice it still works, Al and others may disagree but I've had a few and they all steered straightish and went around corner ok. As I said, if it works it works and I'm sure your Bamby will work also within its intended use.
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This makes an interesting read assuming I can upload it!!
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Its that time of the week again - and I have some week 7 progress photos. Alan has informed me that he has now reach a stand still on the build as he is waiting delivery of critical items in order to progress - so next week may be slow progress (I think he deserves a holiday as he has done exceedingly well - single handedly)!!
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The last photo on the previous post is of the spare wheel bracket (the spare wheel being one of the extras I requested). Don't fancy splitting a wheel rim and getting the puncture repair kit out on the side of a busy road!!
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The last photos for week 7. Its getting very close now!!
What do you think of the white wheels and bumpers again the yellow body? I am liking it better than I thought I would!
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As expected progress for week eight of the build has been hindered by missing critical parts which I believe had all arrived by Thursday.
Amazing that there is any progress at all - wheels now fitted - aperture trimmed for the sliding side window.
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Alan has suggested that the build should be finished by weekend of 8th May.
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Book it in for the enfield pageant !
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Haven't got a trailer yet and the only vehicle i have with a tow bar at the moment is the motorhome - so may not be able to get all of that sorted in time.
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Well when it's done I will come up and see it
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very welcome
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Looking good! Cant beat the bright yellow. ;D
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Hi Jamie ! Nice to see you again how's it going ? :)
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Things are good! i have been working on the heinkel and land rover over winter and they will be working by July at the latest! (YAY) But i have been working really hard at collage fixing tractors and agricultural equipment for customers, so it has been nice coming home and working on my own cars. Also i like working on smaller vehicles, So i am flocking back to micro cars! ;D
How are you?
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Fine thanks Did you get your Peel sorted after your disappointment on Isle of Man , sure hope you did :)
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if i am honest we haven't touched it since we got back, it was put to the bottom of the fix it list. but i will be fixed, i promise! ;D
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Good on you ;)
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Week 9 and getting very close now.
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And three more:-
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Wk10 and we really are about there - this weekend should see the end of the build - just the VOSA test and registration left before I take possession!!
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Wk 10 and more pictures:-
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Work to be done to finish the job:- rear chain guard for vosa test, tidy wires at back of engine, and a T bar nut to make for fastening down battery cover, brakes to bleed and wiper arm/blade to fit. Take no notice of black hinges on the door, this is foam to cover none radiused edges.
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Wk10 and friday evening - The car is now finished apart from the windscreen wipe and arm which has not arrived yet. Just the vosa text now and registration then it time to burn some rubber. This is the last photo I shall post until I take delivery.
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I'm very jelous!
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Looks good
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Having said i would not post any more pictures until I take delivery, I received this one last night and cant help think that this is not right. I know nothing about the MSVA but the wiper seams as if it parks within the viewing portion of the screen (perhaps a little annoying to the driver??).
Any thoughts??
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A genuine Peel has the wiper fitted over the top of the widow.
Is it possible to turn the arm on the spindle so it sits at the bottom of the screen at rest or fit an arm with a bend in it?
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If you turn the arm on the spindle the wiper blade will over shoot the side of the screen by a considerable amount. If you use a shorter arm the reach of the blade will be too low for clear view straight ahead. Don't think you could even turn the wiper motor upside down and reposition as the wiper would then possibly want to park vertically instead of horizontally (I may have that bit wrong?). I would imagine that an alternative motor positioned more towards the side of the screen to reuse the existing arm and blade may be the only solution (then the infilling of the old holes in the body work - not so good!) Shame.
Any thoughts??
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Looking at pictures of real ones with the wiper motor above, the blade still obscures some of the driver vision so what the difference? Even if you tried bending the arm into various positions I dont think it would cure it as the screen is so narrow. The schmitt wiper blade parks its self almost horizontally and pivots from the centre but I guess a short arm would not reach high enough on the screen for a P50?? I would image its possible to rig up one of these parallelogram type wipers that alter the blade angle as it sweeps but is it worth it? Are you going to do much driving in the rain?
Did it pass an MOT like it is?
Ah, what about moving the motor spindle over to the corner and re-using the washer jet hole and putting the washer jet in the old wiper hole?
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it is not the screen washer you seen in the corner, it is the other end of the wiper motor assembly (see previous photos).
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Is there not room to fit a small bubblecar type motor in that corner?
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Surely if you are about to take delivery of this new car everything will be correct ? If you have not taken delivery of it yet well .......
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Not taken delivery yet as not had its MSVA. However, just been into my garage to look at my ape 50 which has its wiper pivoted centrally on the screen and parks in a similar way. That is not a problem to me as I would have remembered its configuration. So maybe it will not offend. However, as Bob says - could always mount a bubblecar type motor in corner (in existing hole) if it is a problem.
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Well I really don't see why you should have to immediately modify a newbuild so I am sure it's just fine as it is
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Alan Evans has built a few P50s now and I think that you will find that not 2 of them are alike in every detail. I guess he changes suppliers regularly and uses different components as others become obsolete. The arrangement of the wiper on my model is dictated by the selected wiper motor. The last P50 alan built used a different wiper motor and has a more aesthetically pleasing result with wiper and arm (car shown below). My P50 is the first with this arrangement with wiper and arm that he has built.
Alan's last P50 build below & my wiper motor.
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Just a quick update. The car is booked in for its VOSA test next saturday morning> I made Alan a visit this week to give the car a look over - couldn't resist a drive in the garden (links to videos:- https://youtu.be/huLL33nyR2A http://youtu.be/Kr06wbKp8Aw). The car is undergoing tweaks to maximise its chances of passing the test (note the mirrors have changed - I prefer these ones).
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Looks like a really nice piece of work. Thanks for linking the videos
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Alan Evans has built a few P50s now and I think that you will find that not 2 of them are alike in every detail. I guess he changes suppliers regularly and uses different components as others become obsolete. The arrangement of the wiper on my model is dictated by the selected wiper motor. The last P50 alan built used a different wiper motor and has a more aesthetically pleasing result with wiper and arm (car shown below). My P50 is the first with this arrangement with wiper and arm that he has built.
Alan's last P50 build below & my wiper motor.
The ones he had, which were the same as I fitted to cheaper Messerschmitts, he backed, as they failed to work on the cars he made. Never got to the bottom of that, but he did not buy from me. I found them a very good and economic unit, which looked much like an original SWF or Bosch period switched motor. Therefore clearly some development of parts bought in was integral with production.
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Whilst visiting Alan Evans last week he said that he was considering remanufacturing his original Bamby with more uptodate components - not sure how serious he was on this issue as it never developed into further conversation. Below is one of the 2 Bambys he owns (an early one with single headlight and gullwing door) which was stowed away under a lean-to adjoining his workshop.
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The P50 passed it MSVA test yesterday - I have now taken possession of the car and all that remains is to get it registered.
Alan Evan has confirmed that he intends to build a limited number of re-engineered Bambys - they shall be re-jigged to accommodate taller people and powered by a modern scooter engine.
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Great news all round ! Well done and have fun , look forward to seeing them around :)
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Mmm. Might be time to cash in my Bamby then. Just as they were going up rather nicely. Mind you since he made the original I cannot really grumble or call the new ones fakes, can I? Continuation models are all the rage. Now where was that bit of paper with the sunroof Goggo T400 details?
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Well done mate !
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congrat's all round - and no silly little flags like the Sinclair's :D
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Definitely no flags but maybe a sail to help push me along.
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Sent off the paperwork well over a week ago for the registering of P50 - so just a waiting game now.
I have been busy making a few improvements here and there, some of which are going to be welcome additions such as a fuel gauge sender fitted to the small 3.5L fuel tank with fuel gauge to the instrument panel and a volt meter giving a constant indication of charge and battery condition (useful when the battery is not much bigger than my empty wallet and the charge rate is like the interest rate of my savings account). I shall take some photos over the weekend of my efforts. Other improvements planned include getting some rubber between the frame and the engine mounts to dampen the vibration and drumming (be it a minimal improvement - any improvement in this department is welcome). There seams to be rattles coming from every direction - so intend on investigating with a view to rectify as many as possible (a couple I know to be the head light switch (needs a better quality replacement) and the door catch (needs the play taken out of the door).
The improvement list shall be a developing and changing over several months (once driven on the road I shall have a better idea of what I want to achieve).
Decided the wiper motor shall stay and think the extra coverage with the blade over the viewing area of the screen is an asset.
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I have had a few problems fitting a fuel gauge sender. I bought a kit off ebay (includes the gauge as well as the sender). It was the only sender I could find that I thought a may have a chance of getting to fit the diminutive sized fuel tank (70mm width and 144mm depth approx externally). The sender unit is an adjustable one for depths between 150-600mm. I had to take a hacksaw and grinder to the sender frame so that it did not project out of the top of the tank. Cutting the hole in the top of the tank was easy enough using a plumbers hole cutter as was the drilling of holes for the fixing screws. The instructions provided recommended tapping threads into the newly drilled holes but I had visions of stripped threads whilst trying to get the plate to seal. There was a steel securing ring provided with holes already tapped but with an internal diameter about the same as that cut into the tank there was no way of getting it in with any amount of notching of the ring. However, not to be put off by that I cut the ring in half and with a few blobs of araldite I secure the 2 halves of ring within the tank body.
Then the fun started. I could not get the sender orientated to any position where the float did not hit either side of the tank within it travel (causing it to stick). Again not to be beaten I removed the float Put it in the vice length ways and heated one end until soft and wound the vice in to cause the softened end to collapse inwards and left in the vice until it had hardened again. I then left the float submerged in petrol for three days to ensure it did not take any petrol in. In the meantime did some temporary wiring to check all is well to discover the gauge was a duffer - so ordered another kit of the same. Arrived the next day checked it worked and ready to go. Today I shall do the final assembly and hope that I don't get any more issues with the float and the tank walls.
As a part of this mod I decided to fit a fuel tank filler neck seal as all that had been fitted was some self adhesive foam around the filler neck which for sure would not have been weather tight. I had to increase the size of the already cut hole within the fibre glass body which was an easy task with an air grinder once I had determined the size, shape and position of the hole required.
Pictures below show the hole in the top of the fuel tank with some screws holding in the 2 halves of the ring whilst the araldite cures and the new filler neck seal.
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Today went well - the fuel gauge is now doing what it is suppose to do and also manage to cure a couple of the rattles - so smiles all around.
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Someone once described driving a P50 as like driving a spare fuel tank, it even had a handle on it. Think his unmarked grave is in the Corswolds just off the Foss.
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Well thought I would bring you upto date on progress. Picture below shows the volt meter installed a couple of weeks ago.
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Tonight I though i would start the re-upholstery of the seat. Stripped the seat back to the frame, cut and sowed the webbing ends and fitted to the seat frame - that was my evening gone!!
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I have done some more work on the seat this evening - upholstery foam now added to the equation. Was going to start making some piping but decided that I was not happy with the quality of the vinyl I had purchased off line so out shopping on Friday to see if I can find something more suitable for the job.
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Not sure if I mentioned on a previous post - whilst the car was being tested by vosa he commented on the horn being less than adequate for the job - He did pass the car on a promise that the horn situation would be rectified. I purchased a 105db horn from good old ebay which should hopefully exceed the audibility requirement. Decide to mount it on the chassis beneath the car so that I can still hear myself think (should I need it) and also so I can retain the existing chrome one on the front for aesthetic reasons (be it disconnected). Now bolted in position but not yet wired in. I have quite a bit of wiring to do so will probably do the lot in one hit.
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Just received this through the post today - a much better arrangement to what I already have - seams good quality too.
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Progress has been slow on the seat due to sewing machine problems. Finally up and running again today so managed to get 1/2 day of sewing - hope my choice of colours are not going to look too busy or garish!!
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seat now finished - what ya think then?
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Looks pretty neat. :)
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that seat looks great , want to borrow a bum to try it ? 8)
Alan
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Thanks chaps for the positive comments!
The V5 came through the post yesterday - thought I would not take a drive until I had finished doing all of my mods and improvements. That Idea lasted all of 15mins before I went to my local wilco to get a number plate made up.
The first trip was about a mile just around the block. I can only describe the drive as the ultimate in physical abuse. The noise levels are like none other that I have experienced (I shall definitely invest in some plugs)!! I went over several bumps that sent me cascading into the roof nearly breaking my neck. When I got out of the car I felt like I had been a victim of an GBH attack. regardless of the abuse the car is fun and the attention it draws makes it worth the pain (satisfying the needy side of my personality). I shall report more later.
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Does the phrase 'driving a fridge' fit? As we know fridges are cool. It is, however where my naughty name for small French cars comes from.
Maybe there are adjustments that can be made. Hard to have the set up right first go. The important thing is it works! So its worth final fixes to improve the range.
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I think a fridge would be more spacious. I definitely think there is room for improvement with tweeks here and there to make a greater range as you say. The biggest problem is the noise level. I have already isolated the engine from the body and frame with rubber which is a very small improvement - I need to do the same with the exhaust pipe and deal with anything that vibrates or rattles of which I have a few. At 30m/h (not convinced the clock is accurate - in fact massively out) the steering is twitchy but I think a can improve on this by setting up the camber and tracking (I believe it to be out), play with tyre pressures to get the best setup and perhaps get some more weight in the front with some code 3 or 4 builders lead beneath the carpet.
I guess it will be a case of play and experiment for a while!!
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Indeed, circuit and bumps. Be handy if there is some smooth surface to use nearby. Need someone or a sack of sand in the car to set it for your bodyweight, ideally. Tuff on anyone else, but its your car.
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congrats on the 'maiden' voyage , re- the noise level fit a 8 track and pump up the volume :D
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if I install an 8 track there will be no room for me!
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An 8 track in a three wheeler leaves 2 and 2/3rds chance of a loss in directional stability.
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Yesterday the exhaust pipe sheared into two because the exhaust bracket became loose and sagged at the back. I was three miles away from home so resorted to phoning the AA. They sent a third party out to assist. we removed the dangling rear section of exhaust and and he followed me home driving with no exhaust (hell it was loud).
Today I welded the two sections back together again with some extra reinforcement and improved the exhaust mounts in order not to have a repeat experience. I also solved a few more rattles. I drove 26 miles in the P50 today (two separate journeys). The exhaust mounts appear to be holding it all together ok. Three days of driving and I can confirm that the steering is not heavy or strange in any way and is no worse than I expected it to be - in fact it is better than expected. The noise levels are improving as I solve more and more of the rattles and buzzes (still a way to go on that one - I shall be happy when all I get is engine, exhaust and road noise).
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See, works better without an 8 track! Good news on handling.