Author Topic: wooo hooo rolling chassis!  (Read 3124 times)


  • Quite Chatty
  • ****
  • Posts: 129
wooo hooo rolling chassis!
« on: June 11, 2009, 08:50:22 pm »
Its...rolling. yay!

Stuart Cyphus

  • Possibly the most fabulous person in the universe....
  • Prolific Poster
  • *****
  • Posts: 1491
Re: wooo hooo rolling chassis!
« Reply #1 on: June 11, 2009, 09:47:19 pm »
 Nice one Adi.  Me, for one, is following your resto with keen intrest.....   ;D


  • Quite Chatty
  • ****
  • Posts: 129
Re: wooo hooo rolling chassis!
« Reply #2 on: June 12, 2009, 03:45:24 am »
So far work on the chassis:

Disassemble everything

Fabricate several parts for floor pan and chassis, notably large sections of floor pan at the front, weld and finish

De rust everythin, brush to bare metal, treat with resin based red oxide (the realllly evil German army surplus stuff which once is dry will stand up to anything, and also has a very powerful anti rust effect), then paint with chassis paint

Replace every single nut bolt and washer with modern galvanized parts (still keeping the wierd old threads tho)

Replace front engine cradle mount and ball joint caps, as well as suspension bump stop rings, with modern rubber. Rear engine cradle bushes looked ok so where recycled.

Remove suspension springs and rear coil-over assembly, de rust it, prime it and paint black. Clean springs, prime with anti rust flexi primer and paint with yellow plastic paint (everyone knows springs should always be yellow hahahah).

Pull rear stub axle from hub to fit a new wheel stud, since the old one stripped. Clean hub, remove broken remains of tensioner bolt and hand brake cable, re tap threads. Re assemble rear hub.

Weld cracked front alloy hub casting.

Fit new cylinders, brake shoes, flexi hoses (flexi hose mounts were so rusty they had to be cut off and new ones fabricated), etc

Re bush one pedal and ream the others two for 3/8 instead of 1/4, for some reason which i cant remember. I think when i was turning the new bush i only had a 3/8 reamer, or something.

Thats about it for now i think.

With brakes, i decided to keep the original layout, except use an early range rover master cylinder. This has thesame mounting dimensions as the original one,  but is significantly beefier built. I will use thesame layout as the car had, with a double banjo feeding the 2 brake lines, and the double banjo being held on by a through banjo bolt (morris minor part?) and a morris minor brake light switch screwd into the other side of the through banjo bolt thing. Iv made up some new brake pipes with new fittings of course, and new banjo bolts washers and bleed nipples. The only parts i will recycle are the brass double banjo bolts, because they are brass and in good condition.