The new baby!

[Bob Purton]

Well here is the long awaited Isetta I promised myself back in 1993! Shelley wants to stick black spots on it and call it Ladybird!, Errr I dont think so!

[Ollie]

Looks very nice Bob.Shame you had to let your smitt go.Was one of the best i have seen 

[Peelpower]

New babies are always good, mates. I am also looking for something new. Bond , Bamby, Nobel, Scootacar!
Any ideas?

OR ANY OFFERS???

[richard]

nice one Bob. look forward to hearing of your exploits . it should be nice when restored 

[Big Al]

New babies are always good, mates. I am also looking for something new. Bond , Bamby, Nobel, Scootacar!
Any ideas?

OR ANY OFFERS???

There are some Bond MkGs and a C coming up from my bud. Might be a Berk SA322 but he would rather sell his Nobel. On hols at the mo but back soon so I can put you in touch.

[Bob Purton]

I took the Isetta out for its first spin today. The car was restored about eighteen years ago by someone who likes restoring but not driving and it was put up on blocks unused for sixteen years. Basicly what I have taken on is a cosmeticaly pretty car which has had a mechanical overhaul too but has not been through that sorting period to ironing out all the wrinkles, adjustments etc, this usually takes several months of driving I have found. When I got it the battery was dead so today I fitted a new one and got it started. Now for a go around the block, first impressions, brakes good, engine running a little erraticaly, I think the carb needs cleaning out. Steering wasnt too bad despite the play mentioned in the other thread. Clutch needs adjusting. What was shocking though was an awfull judder coming from the back. Thinking that I had bought a right pig in a poke I pulled into the drive and pondered what may be causeing it. The only time I had experianced something like it was when I ran a reliant supervan and the front wheel nuts had worked loose. Grasping at straws I jacked the back up and sure enough, the rear wheel nuts had not been done up! With the nuts done up nice and tight I took it out again and what a transfomation! With faith restored I now plan on spending a couple of days soon adjusting everything up and hopefully have it ready for some rallies this summer. 

[Jim Janecek]

please check the drive donuts to make sure they are not cracked.  If they fail while moving it is a big problem.
I am working on someone's Isetta right now because "the rear brake is stuck", turns out one of the 2 donuts broke, bent the flanges on both the chaincase and gearbox and locked up the rear wheels.
Brakes were fine.

also- check the 5 silentblocs in the steering, particularly the ones on either end of the tie rod.  Even if replaced 18 years ago, the rubber can disintegrate leaving lots of excess play (a little bit of play adds up through 5 silentblocs..).  You might want to replace these just as preventative maintenance.  Every Isetta I have seen that was sitting could use these.
The problem is that they might seem fine at first but once you start driving they start wearing (if they are old) and if you hit a bump you get this awful "Shake of Death" from the front end.

I am surprised the brakes still worked!   Go Girling!

[Bob Purton]

HI Jim. I didn't realise that you were an Isetta man. Now I know I will be bothering you daily! About the brakes, its not as wonderful as the impression I gave, speaking to the previous owner he admitted to refurbing the master cylinder about three years back because the brakes were jammed on. At the same time he fitted a new fuel tank as the old one was weeping, this was when he forgot to do up the wheel nuts! The brakes pull up straight and I think will get sharper because the linings are still not bedded in yet even though eighteen years old. I will check the donuts. The multitude of silentblock bushes is so reminiscent of Nobels, it must be a German thing. I haven't taken the cover plate off yet but looking at the steering all the play appears to be from directly under the steering box so I'm guessing its the box or the first linklages that I cannot see with the cover on. Dispite adjusting the clutch both ways there is some drag going on making gear changing awkward, I dont know whats going on there but hope it doesn't necessitate engine removal to sort, any ideas?  Bob

[Jim Janecek]

mind you, I don't know the setup for a RHD Isetta and just assume the steering components are the same (but reversed) from a LHD model.
look at the attached for a view of the LHD steering.  Hold it up to a mirror to see yours.   

I was incorrect earlier there are only FOUR silentblocs in the steering, I was tired and thinking of the shifter linkage.  That is where my mind goes when I am tired, I have idea why....
Note in the parts that #86 appears to be one piece but is in fact a worm screw and receiver.
If you move the steering wheel and #86 does not appear to move up and down, your problem is a worn worm screw assembly. 
If that part DOES go up and down slightly you are in luck and the problem is most likely one or all of the 4 silentblocs down the line. 

the Isetta steering is not as tight as other micros, a little bit "spongy".

As for the clutch, over time the cable housing stretches slightly so no matter how much you adjust it, the cable will not provide enough travel to fully disengage.
That is one common problem.
Another is that the rod that goes through the gearbox and activates the clutch "sticks".
It is supposed to rotate with the gears but if the bearings stick over time,especially after sitting for many years, the rod may also stick and this means you are pressing a stationary rod against a rotating clutch plate and essentially are slowly drilling a hole in the clutch plate.

Or of course maybe the clutch lining is worn.

[Bob Purton]

Thanks Jim. I will study the drawing. Fear not, mine is LHD also. Many Brighton built cars are.

[marcus]

Cyril Ayton's "Book of the Bubblecar" might be useful for you as it deals with Isettas, Schmitts and Heinkel Trojans.
But you already know that and have your own copy...!

[Bob Purton]

You are right Marcus. I have the book but it really only covers maintainence.

[Bob Purton]

I just read on an American Isetta site that our Jim is regarded as an Isetta "expert"! Great! That's just what I need!  I have now had a few days to fiddle with the new toy, when I got it the car would only run with the choke partly out, I dismantled the carb and discovered that as well as needing de-varnishing inside the float was covered in hairline fractures and thus was a leaker. Fortunately I had a new float in stock as it appears to be the same as a Schmitt one. Now the engine runs as sweet as a nut without the choke. Next issue to tackle is the dragging clutch. Everyone goes on about how the rod should rotate so as not to slowly bore a hole in the clutch plate, whilst I appreciate that is the case it doesn't answer my current question, with rod rotating or not rotating , after trying the full range of adjustments the clutch still drags and makes gear changing an unpleasant affair. What could be causing this? Apparently it did not do this before the car was stood up many years ago. Any ideas anyone?

[Jim Janecek]

The only 2 things I can think of that are left are:
Weak/Old Clutch cable housing that stretches slightly when you apply the clutch.
or
worn clutch lining.  How do you know that was not the reason it was "stood up" many years ago?

also- you cannot tell the condition of the clutch pressure plate until you pull the engine off the gearbox.

[Bob Purton]

Well this is what I'm asking, could it be a faulty pressure plate? Its certainly not the cable. If the clutch lining were worn surely that would cause clutch slip, not drag? As you say, this problem may well be the reason it was not used. Are pressure plates available in the usa? They are not on the parts list here. I will pop the engine out shortly, just getting a feel as to what to look for in advance.  Thanks Jim.