Interesting to see as the door fits properly, something I have never seen on an old one, I'm guessing the fiberglass shrinks or moves causing the bottom edge to flare out a little. Has anyone ever been able to fix this on there door?
If it is the door that you want to reform, I have had good success reshaping a very thick and difficult to flex single skin door from a one off race car to more properly fit it's surrounding body aperture. I used a large ratcheting clamp with a soft plastic landing to "tweak" it into a slightly over corrected position. The fiberglass will tell you when you have reached maximum tweak, as you will become afraid to stress it any further for fear of cracking.
My door had unusually thick fiberglass that withstood what felt like at least a 100 lb force. I then roughed up the inside of the newly dis/ res-torted area, and used an epoxy base for a couple of hefty layers of fiberglass mat. Squeegeed them out underneath a sheet of Saran (plastic ) wrap, and left it all out in the sun for a full week for good measure.
I was amazed how well it worked. Several years later it has given back none of its corrected dimension, and not even developed stress cracks in the gel coat despite its harboring at least 100lbs of "twang".
In another example, I had noticed that my Badsey Bullet prototype's upward swinging dual cowls stuck out too much on the sides due to the fact that the engine cover (a visible body part) that lies betwixt them was built too wide. I modified a work bench vise to accommodate its 18" width and cranked away until the creaking was almost too much to bear. This was a more flexible part so I took the opportunity to cast in a rib as an arch support and overcorrected fully by a 50% margin. Same great result with no signs of reversion or gel coat cracking some two years on. Got lucky on the larger over correction factor again too!
