Oh dear, a rotty botty. That can be a lot of work and a lot of money. It is what I am keeping clear of. A solid but dead Goggo I can happily get going but I do not want loads of bodywork. I feared this car was a bit of a hanger.
For ease of availability you can use a universal BMC/BL clutch puller with appropriate metric bolts into the three threaded holes provided on the brake drum. The rear drums are on tapers so need a good tighten and a sharp whack with a soft headed mallet to get them off. If they come off to simply then someone has been in there or the taper needs cleaning. The brake adjusters are not to clever, but are shared with other vehicles, so maybe found. Try not to break the handbrake shoe strap; it is brittle metal.
The UJs are a favourite pain. They can get badly worn, especially if built out of balance. In driving they will show up as a wobble and/or clonk. The kingpins die too. Great little set up with needle bearings but sadly not waterproof without lots of oil. Held in with a roll pin and you need a top quality 4mm, I think it is, drift to get them out. Dead easy then. Get the pin stuck with a bust cheapo drift and its a bas***d.
If the UJs have been duff or are gone it knocks the hell out of the drive shaft oil seals. That could be your oil leak. Not a difficult repair if the UJs are to be done. Pays to check the preloded backlash on an abused diff. They are strong and will put up with a lot of action but there is a limit.
Gears indeed are H across the car starting at the forward left. Reverse should have a gate with a shield lifted on the gearstick to go over it. That can be naffed or the front gear shaft bush disintegrated. Do not be tempted to drive far without the protection of this guard. The Goggo gearbox is nearly bullet proof but for reverse getting selected at forward speed! In good working order you can actually drive it without the clutch just using feel skill for the gear speed. Its one of the fastest gear-changes I think there is.
Be aware that you probably have two drain plugs in the bottom of the engine case for each crankcase chamber. These can be messed with and not seal, losing compression and leaking oil. Handy for clearing an unknown engine out though. Another fave is the dynostarter side oil seal poping out of position on the bearing carrier. Oil in the dynostarter will result, not helpful and again loss of compression. It is a design fault and a 'Uwe plate' cures it, from Staufenburg. Perhaps the most difficult job to try and do in the car! You need a hardened steel tool or at least distance peace to remove the dynostarter, as in Isetta, Miaco, NSU. Never put anything soft in there or you risk it never coming out again.
Like I say mechanically a Goggo is mostly good news and good metal fasteners. A few special tools are needed but you can get round most of them. It's body work that is their problem. Get it going for a blast and you will want to get that body sorted out.
