Author Topic: Flagging dynastart's  (Read 11437 times)

DaveMiller

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Re: Flagging dynastart's
« Reply #15 on: September 30, 2014, 08:01:43 PM »
From the brief details as linked, that appears to deal with the stages beyond whatever you have as trigger (points, optical, Hall effect, etc), but not build the trigger itself, which is the difficult bit to source - or have I misunderstood?

AndyL

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Re: Flagging dynastart's
« Reply #16 on: September 30, 2014, 09:00:24 PM »
A trigger is a piece of cake. You can use a hall sensor and a magnet, very cheap and easy to make yourself.
1959 LHD 3-wheel Isetta.

DaveMiller

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Re: Flagging dynastart's
« Reply #17 on: September 30, 2014, 09:29:47 PM »
The trick I csn't get my head round is how to mount the moving parts, and how to arrange for the two sensors not to interfere with each other, to allow reverse.

Jim Janecek

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Re: Flagging dynastart's
« Reply #18 on: September 30, 2014, 11:08:27 PM »
The trick I csn't get my head round is how to mount the moving parts, and how to arrange for the two sensors not to interfere with each other, to allow reverse.

replace the advance cam with a new piece that incorporates a small magnet embedded in it.
This would have to be fabricated of course.
Hall Effect sensor gets mounted where the points used to be and so does not move except for adjustment.

Big Al

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Re: Flagging dynastart's
« Reply #19 on: September 30, 2014, 11:51:17 PM »
are all those extras strictly needed, modern or not?

Well, no.  For almost all of us, the whole microcar is not strictly needed!

But I enjoy having the cars, and driving them - my way.

'nuf said. It is about the enjoyment of the car, when all is said and done.

The LED thing is actually of more general use in classic cars and the benefits are there for pure savings in power, or a cunning plan. Be handy to find an indicator answer rather than a resister that is off the shelf, as it were.
Messerschmitt set, Goggo Darts, Heinkel 175, Fiat Jolly, Autobianchi, Fairthorpe Electron Minor, Borgward, Isuzu Trooper
Citroen BX 17TZD & GTI 16v
Held - MG Magnette ZB & 4/44
For sale - Vellam Isetta, Bamby, AC Type 70, Velorex, Church Pod, Reliant Mk5, KR200,  Saab 96, Bellemy Trials, Citroen BXs

AndyL

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Re: Flagging dynastart's
« Reply #20 on: October 01, 2014, 01:44:48 AM »
The 'off-the-shelf' answer to non-resistor fitted led indicators is to fit a replacment flasher designed with LED's in mind. These tend to be relay or fully solid state based instead of the old bi-metallic strip of earlier units.

They are available, but of course it entails an additional expense, plus it's generally a non-standard looking item, for those ultra fussy about originality.

If you wanted to be really trick, you could of course make up your own board designed to fit in the original can!
1959 LHD 3-wheel Isetta.

AndyL

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Re: Flagging dynastart's
« Reply #21 on: October 01, 2014, 04:51:08 PM »
Regarding hall sensor triggering for a dual points set-up, I have no experience of those, but would suggest that a bistable relay which switches from one pole to the other depending on which way the engine was started. This would then use either one hall sensor or the other.

Hall sensors are available which don't need an external magnet, as they have one incorporated internally. All you need for a trigger is a bit of steel or iron sweeping past. this could be something as basic as a bit of steel rod bonded onto the cam that originally triggered the points. A proper job would be a new plate, cam with a single tooth worked in.
« Last Edit: October 01, 2014, 04:57:21 PM by AndyL »
1959 LHD 3-wheel Isetta.

Chris Thomas

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Re: Flagging dynastart's
« Reply #22 on: October 01, 2014, 04:58:31 PM »
The only Hall sensor I have is my wife as she comes through the front door. Anything parked in the hallway and I sense her anger.

Chris Thomas

DaveMiller

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Re: Flagging dynastart's
« Reply #23 on: October 01, 2014, 05:43:25 PM »
Thanks for that - I need to give it some thought!

AndyL

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Re: Flagging dynastart's
« Reply #24 on: October 04, 2014, 01:58:12 AM »
Just found these. Similar concept to what i am aiming at, although active heatsinks, wheras I am using passive heatsinks. They're also bit higher output than what I would go for, but certainly lower current draw than filament lamps. They would also need some plates made up to make them suitable for prefocus reflectors, but that shouldn't be a huge problem for anyone with basic bench fitting skills.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-power-car-h4-led-headlight-bulbs-50w-Cree-CXA-1512-led-headlight/1246825521.html
1959 LHD 3-wheel Isetta.