I've had one since 1992. Never thought to register it until now.
All of them except for mine exhibit approx 1/4 inch of toe in per one inch of spring compression. To be more exact- that figure is different for the right and left front wheels due to the off center location of the output ends of the ball and trunnion steering mechanism. This necessitates unequal length steering controll arms that unfortunately also serve as the upper links to the suspension. Therefore it is impossible with the original set up to get symmetrical changes in toe in (there shouldn't have been any in the first place), and camber with compression of the front suspension under usual driving conditions.
This also makes for a very exciting driving experience especially upon hitting bumps, and really dangerous if hitting a one wheel bump, or a diagonal elevation such as a railroad track or bridge break on a freeway at speed as the car will turn first one way and then quickly the other. This rapid one -two, right - left punch seems like it wants to flip the car. This is because whilst simultaneous imposition of significant two wheeled toe in can feel like it wants to trip the car as it becomes slightly asymmetrically pigeon toed- one wheeled toe in is the same as a steering input directing your vehicle's path towards the opposite side of the road.
I could go on and on because as far as I know I am the only one who has ever figured out all the problem's of this car's suspension and steering. I actually built a full scale working model of it off the car to figure out what was happening and why. I also believe that I am the only one to ever engineer a proper solution to all the problems I discovered.
I engineered a mini rack and pinion unit with a centered output and 20 and a half inch long upper radius rods/steering arms to connect to an input point on the hubs behind (vs. ahead as on the original cars) of the front axle line. This had the effect of reducing toe in to 12 thousandths of an inch during one inch of spring compression - which is well within race car standards. I also equalized and drastically increased the castor to approx 8 degrees for more self centering effect. I also released the front springs from their highly compresed state for a smoother ride, as well as replaced all the rod ends and hardware store quality strap and ball pivot bushings with customized "alumibronze" bushings. I also engineered the central transverse pivot rod that slips so sloppily within its 3 foot long grease filled tube that looks like a torsion bar ac cross the front end to be controlled by needle bearings.
The only thing original to the steering is the steering wheel, yet I am proud to be able to say that I managed to get the crazy suspension to actually work the way the designer had hoped for without sacrificing the weirdness of his design. If you didn't peer around under the dash and front footwells you would never even see any of the modifications.
I also took out a tremendous source of lateral sway by creating custom made tunable bushings without the unneeded and unwanted lateral compliance of the originals. Switching from the 3 stock 155 sr 12 inch tires to a rear mag wheel with a Pirelli 175/50 x 13 " tire also helped as it has the stiffest sidewall available, and that is another major contributor to the destabilizing side sway that is endemic to three wheelers. I put Yokohama 165/70 HR x 10" in the front to lower the center of gravity, allow for the increase the tire clearance required to ac comadate the greater castor angle causing the original tires to rub the inner fenders upon nearing full lock, and yes even slightly improve the aero- or in this case should I say arrow dynamics of the pointy nose beast.
Good luck on the brakes. They are rather ineffectual. At least they are conventional so not too hard to work on.
Don't forget to center your brake drums each time you take off the wheels by rotating the wheels slowly whilst tightening the lugs .
