Author Topic: NSU Prinz clutch change  (Read 2541 times)


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NSU Prinz clutch change
« on: June 09, 2011, 01:45:23 AM »

Can anybody give me any rough pointers as to how to change the clutch on my Prinz? Its a 2 cylinder model.

Someone mentioned that its possible to do it with the engine in the car, but roughly how? That engine is seriously wierd, I have never see anything like that before. I literally have no idea how it even works, I could not find any blueprints even anywhere on-line. I have a manual on the way soon hopefully, but that won't be for a few days, and since I need a car asap, I could really do with getting along with it.

So, can anybody describe roughly the procedure for changing the clutch with the engine still in the car?

I noticed there is a clutch remover tool available for these, does that mean that you need this tool? Or is there any way to get around that? Are there any more special tools needed?



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Re: NSU Prinz clutch change
« Reply #1 on: June 10, 2011, 01:10:07 PM »
NOBODY knows how to change a Prinz clutch?

Big Al

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Re: NSU Prinz clutch change
« Reply #2 on: June 11, 2011, 09:57:21 AM »
I now have time to answer your question.

Two jacks ideally. Jack up car.

Jack under engine and remove the clutch side mounting. Allow the engine to drop on that side.

You need an Allen key to take of the cover, four bolts, there is a dowel for orientation from memory.You know have access to the release system/bearing. Press in and rotate, forget which way but it is about a quarter turn and it will disengage and remove from the assembly like a filler cap.

You now have the holding nut exposed. It should have a lock-washer on it to undo. Then undo the nut and remove with the two washers, the other is underneath the nut.

You can now remove the entire clutch assembly from the engine withdrawing it off the shaft. Take to a bench and chase round the workshop!

Like I said a doddle.

Mark all parts for reassembly as the clutch and some of its parts individually are balanced for smooth running and you need to re assemble it so it remains balanced. This is not some crappo car but an engineered one!
Unfortunately there about four differing clutch designs. You will not have the early one - P2/3 and should be on a diaphragm spring. Either way all designs require to be aligned for reassembly onto the shaft. I am sure you can make a suitable tool to do this as a one off (hopefully).

Of course there are special tools to aid all this but you do not really need them for this job. The NSU tool board is very comprehensive and certain tasks do require a tool but much can be got round. Do not be tempted to bodge the dynostarter puller however. That needs to be a very strong piece of steel or it bends/shatters internally and you are then ........ Isetta, Goggo and Miaco owners have the same problem. A suitable hard steel pin and the holding bolt can be used. Hopefully you will not need to do this task during ownership.

Lawrence House has just sourced new oil seals for the head studs if you have one leaking. Maybe you are not aware that these rubbers seal the 'tappet chests' from 6 holes passing through so as to reach the head bolts. It is common for these to fail chucking oil everywhere and promoting poor cooling.
« Last Edit: June 11, 2011, 12:16:49 PM by Bob Purton »
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